Easter in Popayan sans chocolate

Bubba, Dixie and Philipe just before the procession reaches us

Easter here is a very different thing that what I've grown up with. For one, there's no chocolate, no bunnies, no hunting. It's much more what it actually reflects - the solemnity around the death of Christ and his resurrection. Even here it is more solemn than I saw in the very catholic Malta a couple of years back. it's a time for families to gather, many visit the 12 stations of the cross while reciting the appropriate prayers and stories, and the procession here was very slow and sad.

Cathedral in Popayan - actually our hostel was in the old convent building adjacent to the dome

On Thursday Philipe, Dixie and Bubba and I arrived after a rather long, read 12 hour bus ride that was 5 hours extended because of a breakdown. Although it enabled us to drink beer and eat copious amounts of ice cream all afternoon, we arrived into a wet Popayan after dark, and were pretty much escorted by a really kind couple to the hostel. Lucky we had called that afternoon to book, as I don't think any of us were up for walking around hunting out somewhere to stay in a city that its centre closed off for processions in the dark and wet.

But we made it in time, headed out to wait for the parade, gave up after 2 minutes and instead hunted out some much needed, 'proper' food. Bubba and Dixie were wowed by some chunky soups, and I feasted on a plump trout while Philipe had a very juicy steak. We did see a bit of the procession - it was slow, very sad, very thumping due to the militar drums, and after about half an hour, I got tired and followed the others back to the hostel.

We were to see the procession again the next night - and it was pretty much the same. It must be hard carrying these very heavy floats (solid silver and timber) for about 4 hours of procession. respect. There are a number of floats - all statues of the virgin mary, and then jesus on the cross and laying down, that proceed very slowly from church to church. Philipe and I cornered ourselves in a Cajero Automatico (ATM) as we arrived a little late to the heaving crowds lining the streets. the procession was quite long and drawn out, but was great to see so many people there to experience it.

On the way up to the 2nd station of the cross

the daytime though was a lot more active - thousands of people flock to Popayan every Semana Santa (the whole week is off for school children, and people work until Wednesday, then have Thurs/Fri off but are back to work Monday) and it really was a family event in Popayan. There was a sort of feria on the way up to the twelve stations of the cross, complete with taffy and bubbles. But on the way up, many groups of people reciting prayers, and many as a family. Perhaps this might be the only time they do this, but I still think a respectful way to understand the reason for the holiday. Much better than the excessive chocolate that we seem to have, even though I do think this is rather tasty:)

The white finish of Popayan makes it a very genteel city

Popayan is another beautiful colonial city (though it was all rebuilt due to an earthquake at the turn of the century). It's white also - like Arequipa, and quite grand, like Sucre, and polished - like Cuenca in Ecuador. Each country seems to have it's pretty city, and Popayan was one of these.

Yesterday though we left the white walls, and headed to see Wolf and Fabiola, a couple we had met biking in northern Chile. Wolf is German but lives here with Fabiola for most of the year in a town called Tulua. It's actually quite nice - very relaxed and completey off the tourist track. Today we moseyed around the town, completing the slow sunday walk in the central plazas where many men were talking and playing serious games of Chess. Nice pace.

On the way back to their house, I got to snack on yet one of my favourite empanandas so far - this time a thinner pastry, with almost a curry potato filling, and best thing - baked over hot coals. Delish. No pic though:( We ended the day with a drink at Fabiola's nephew's bar - a rather swish affair upstairs in town. Sort of white leather lounges, and high wooden stools. Very not south american somehow, but somehow it fit.

Tomorrow we're getting treated to a drive around the Zona Cafatera - the coffee plantations, and then Tues off to see a friend of theirs who actually runs a plantation! Very spoilt. Indeed, the people here are just so genuinely welcoming and friendly! There is also, I'm told and see lots of evidence of - a lot of plastic surgery. Lipo, breast and bum implants. Both the men and women are very beautiful, and it's also the most mixed colours, ethnic backgrounds (though no Asian or pure blonds) that we've seen here in South America.

christianity in the bolivian jungle

it's an odd sort of thing - in the last week we've separately met two
very kind and very passionate Americans - both Christians, working and
living in Bolivia over the past 15 years or so. Stewart and his Bolivian
wife, Naide stopped and spoke to us on the road from Trinidad, and
subsequently invited us to stay with them; and Ronnie approached us when
we arrived in Rurrenabaque and helped us find a bike friendly hotel.
We've also seen quite a few Mormons and also Mennonites (close to the
Amish) walking around in their hats, overalls, women in long skirts and
matching striped shopping bags.


I've not yet worked out the appeal - or the reason why in the previous 8
months I've not met anyone like this - yet bang, since being near the
old Jesuit Missions and into the tropics of the jungle, meeting and
seeing so many. It has definitely been interesting listening to the many
stories, theories and religious ideas and experiences, but somehow
tiring as well (usually there's hours of listening involved). It's
interesting to see the different degrees of integration; for instance
Stewart doesn't speak much Spanish - despite Naide not speaking any
English, or the types of food eaten - from eating a typical amuerzo
(lunch) with Ronnie, to the hotcakes with syrup and bacon for a dinner
snack cooked by Naide.

1 200cc bike, 5 people, 50kms of muddy road. RESPECt

Road had turned to mud on the way back

Road there - driving at night not so fun

Stewart and Naide's place was a bit of a ways from the town we planned
on staying in - try 7 hours riding sand (which turned to mud on the way
back after rains) to get about 130kms. (thankfully i rode 2 up on the
sidecar) They don't see too many foreigners; apart from family who
visited we were the only English speakers that had come by in the past
year. The community near their house consisted about 20 families; no
electricity, a clean water tank was just being installed, every dirt
house was shared by the greater family, oxen pulling around carts,
cattle and pigs roaming around - and during rainy season it becomes
completely cut off and inaccessible by car. A very different way of life.

Stewart getting comfortable watching for hochi's

Listening intently - he also played the mandolin quite well

Stewart definitely had a luxurious house by comparison - his own water
tank/well/pump with a good pressure outdoor cold shower, 2 generators,
fridge and... air conditioners for 3 rooms. I can relate to this -
things we take as important - ie. clean drinking water, having a
sanitation tank for human waste etc are a bit out of the norm here.

A noisy friend 

We spent 5 days with them - Stewart was definitely a very strong
character; from Florida but with a strong southern accent, so his
stories about slow trail deer hunting, fishing using airboats, the frog
leg trade, stories of his brother, when he arrived in Bolivia, the
conversations he has with the Lord and miracles he has witnessed, were
told in an expressive slow drawl and with whole body passion. There were
some rather very strong views that came out but he was very welcoming,
and I learnt many new things about how people live out their beliefs.

Dancing in San Ignacio de Moxos

Blocking the blockade

Imagine this after 4 months of rainy season.....

After 5 days we headed back to San Ignacio de Moxos, then to San Borja,
and yesterday a long day of riding to Rurrenabaque. On the way we
stopped for 2 hours at a road blockade that was in protest of a new road
being built through some protected areas to facilitate transport between
Chile and Brazil. A bit baking in the midday sun and I'm not sure if
there are more effective ways to find a solution. From there we went
through some muddy patches and road under construction to reach Rurre -
I cannot imagine how these roads are in the rainy season - we are now at
the end of the dry season and it's already difficult now.

Rurre for a couple of days, perhaps a venture out to Rio Tuichi to
hopefully see some animals, then got to work out how exactly I'm going
to get to Cusco to see mum and dad... there's a road on the map - but
apparently it doesn't exist... hmm....