Easter in Popayan sans chocolate

Bubba, Dixie and Philipe just before the procession reaches us

Easter here is a very different thing that what I've grown up with. For one, there's no chocolate, no bunnies, no hunting. It's much more what it actually reflects - the solemnity around the death of Christ and his resurrection. Even here it is more solemn than I saw in the very catholic Malta a couple of years back. it's a time for families to gather, many visit the 12 stations of the cross while reciting the appropriate prayers and stories, and the procession here was very slow and sad.

Cathedral in Popayan - actually our hostel was in the old convent building adjacent to the dome

On Thursday Philipe, Dixie and Bubba and I arrived after a rather long, read 12 hour bus ride that was 5 hours extended because of a breakdown. Although it enabled us to drink beer and eat copious amounts of ice cream all afternoon, we arrived into a wet Popayan after dark, and were pretty much escorted by a really kind couple to the hostel. Lucky we had called that afternoon to book, as I don't think any of us were up for walking around hunting out somewhere to stay in a city that its centre closed off for processions in the dark and wet.

But we made it in time, headed out to wait for the parade, gave up after 2 minutes and instead hunted out some much needed, 'proper' food. Bubba and Dixie were wowed by some chunky soups, and I feasted on a plump trout while Philipe had a very juicy steak. We did see a bit of the procession - it was slow, very sad, very thumping due to the militar drums, and after about half an hour, I got tired and followed the others back to the hostel.

We were to see the procession again the next night - and it was pretty much the same. It must be hard carrying these very heavy floats (solid silver and timber) for about 4 hours of procession. respect. There are a number of floats - all statues of the virgin mary, and then jesus on the cross and laying down, that proceed very slowly from church to church. Philipe and I cornered ourselves in a Cajero Automatico (ATM) as we arrived a little late to the heaving crowds lining the streets. the procession was quite long and drawn out, but was great to see so many people there to experience it.

On the way up to the 2nd station of the cross

the daytime though was a lot more active - thousands of people flock to Popayan every Semana Santa (the whole week is off for school children, and people work until Wednesday, then have Thurs/Fri off but are back to work Monday) and it really was a family event in Popayan. There was a sort of feria on the way up to the twelve stations of the cross, complete with taffy and bubbles. But on the way up, many groups of people reciting prayers, and many as a family. Perhaps this might be the only time they do this, but I still think a respectful way to understand the reason for the holiday. Much better than the excessive chocolate that we seem to have, even though I do think this is rather tasty:)

The white finish of Popayan makes it a very genteel city

Popayan is another beautiful colonial city (though it was all rebuilt due to an earthquake at the turn of the century). It's white also - like Arequipa, and quite grand, like Sucre, and polished - like Cuenca in Ecuador. Each country seems to have it's pretty city, and Popayan was one of these.

Yesterday though we left the white walls, and headed to see Wolf and Fabiola, a couple we had met biking in northern Chile. Wolf is German but lives here with Fabiola for most of the year in a town called Tulua. It's actually quite nice - very relaxed and completey off the tourist track. Today we moseyed around the town, completing the slow sunday walk in the central plazas where many men were talking and playing serious games of Chess. Nice pace.

On the way back to their house, I got to snack on yet one of my favourite empanandas so far - this time a thinner pastry, with almost a curry potato filling, and best thing - baked over hot coals. Delish. No pic though:( We ended the day with a drink at Fabiola's nephew's bar - a rather swish affair upstairs in town. Sort of white leather lounges, and high wooden stools. Very not south american somehow, but somehow it fit.

Tomorrow we're getting treated to a drive around the Zona Cafatera - the coffee plantations, and then Tues off to see a friend of theirs who actually runs a plantation! Very spoilt. Indeed, the people here are just so genuinely welcoming and friendly! There is also, I'm told and see lots of evidence of - a lot of plastic surgery. Lipo, breast and bum implants. Both the men and women are very beautiful, and it's also the most mixed colours, ethnic backgrounds (though no Asian or pure blonds) that we've seen here in South America.

Patagonian road trip

Well well, how plans change. You know great idea I had to 'walk into Chile', hike up some volcanoes, wander my way north and back to Bariloche? Hmm... didn't quite happen. Instead, now a month later, I've not set foot in Chile, only seen some volcanoes receding into the horizon and instead had a great time wandering through back roads around glassy lakes, soaking in mud and hot springs, staring out into endless desert landscapes and picnicking in dusty oasis towns. But... to backtrack...

The chocolate to celebrate being in Bariloche turned out to be a rather nice ale with Max – who I had met back in Parque Nacional Los Alerces. Beer turned into plans for doing the Nahuel Haupi Traverse – a 4 day trek just west of Bariloche, and then to add to the mix, I heard from Julia – a fellow Antarctican traveller, who was arriving in town the next day and was interested to do some hiking. So, while keep energy levels up with chocolate and the BEST icecream on earth – Jauja – you've got to try lemon pie (literally like a lemon cheesecake), tiramisu (seriously with actual tiramisu in it) and chocolate profundo (the darkest most delish chocolate), dulce de leche (plain or with nuts or brownies), coco, banana – ok ok, going on a bit but if you could just taste it....and lest I forget, very very tasty choripan (chorizo sausage in bread), Max and I whiled away a couple of days camping and climbing and preparing for the trek. The traverse itself was actually really quite a nice surprise – after all the trekking down south in wind and rain, the varied terrain, sweeping views of lakes, various mountains was all done pretty much in sunshine, and even with the slight detour we did off the trek (yes a wrong turn along a ridge), the now 5 day trek was I think one of the more relaxed and enjoyable treks so far. Pics from the trek.

Tucking into choripan in Bariloche! yum

Heading up to Frey

 

Intrepid trekkers -me, Julia and Max

During post trek steak, biscuit and coffee indulgences a new plan was hatched... Max was on his way back north – after spending a year and a half driving from Montreal down to Ushuaia, he was making tracks back home to Canada – and so I decided to change pace and play passenger.

It was fantastic – instead of the nose against the bus window / snooze to the next city, we crunched our way along gravel roads, found hidden camping spots alongside pristine lakes, soaked in hot springs (well one was a volcanic mud pool), sampled the local chorizo and empanadas, ate copious amounts of Frutigran biscuits, listened (for me the first time) to some crazy Quebec folk twang, battled truckers tan, camped up high in the mountains and down in the quarry, drove through canyons, snacked on sneaky pehuen pine nuts, drove slow around potholes, zoomed along the asphalt and when it all just got too much, chilled out for a couple of days to recharge. I'm very thankful to Max for letting me come along for the ride – I was definitely able to see a different kind of Argentina, get off the tourist road and just travel at a different speed. Some pics are below - but there's more with some of my bad captions also.

At the hot springs at Lago Queni

Morning mist at Lago Quillen

Max cooking up a parilla storm!

Ancient Pehuen trees

Max at the mud thermals at Copahue

At Canon Atuel

Another great thing was being able to more of how Argentinian families spend time together – and although their choice of places (alongside a freeway?!) didn't always seem the most inspiring, on many days we'd pass families out together clustered around a table or asado (grill) , looking settled to stay there in the sinking sun just chatting and drinking mate.

Also, the level of curiosity of other drivers and people in the towns when seeing the car – usually flagged by a driver peering over his steering wheel trying to decipher the Quebec plates – was funny to see. Well for me I think Max's impersonation of them was even more entertaining. We wound our way from Bariloche, through the Argentinian lakes district, then up through Parque National Lanin and a bit further into the more arid landscapes around Chos Malal and up north of Mendoza through Valle Calingasta to Rodeo.

So after about 3 weeks travelling together, Max has zoomed off and is probably already in Peru, and I spent some days in San Juan and am now in Mendoza. It's definitely odd being back in the old mode of travel, I'm missing being able to take off and explore different places, and now more than ever I'm thinking about how I could either cycle or drive more of the trip. One of the most inspiring campsite conversations we had with another traveller was with a Dutch guy who was cycling – the way he talked about the Patagonian winds, how they changed and worked with his body while cycling along the Pampa, then up towards a pass and then shifted again coming back down; he shared a beautiful balance and respect for nature that so often we succumb to just rattling on about without any real understanding. Even me with my, the wind and rain blah blah, the way he spoke about how he interacted with the elements was utterly inspiring. Not quite ready to trade in my backpack for paniers, but... you never know....

San Juan was my first city since leaving Buenos Aires – and Mendoza is even bigger; I'm not sure how I feel about being back in a speedier pace of life, and I'm actually craving being back out in nature. I have though drank a lot of fantastic wine here – both Mendoza and San Juan are major wine regions, and in San Juan I was lucky to have a go at picking grapes at harvest (cabernet sauvingon and bonarda – beautiful little buds of sticky sweetness).

I'm here for a week of wineries, baths and eating – Dana who I met in Antarctica is coming over from Uruguay where she lives and we are going to hit the town! After that, the plan at this stage is to do perhaps a 6 day trek in Cordon del Plata (which has a number of 4000-6000m peaks), then head across for some beach time to Valparaiso in Chile. Then, um, I don't know – north? Or the original plan of working more in the harvest... but surprise surprise – work? Am I ready? Actually I probably am but am desperate to get out into the mountains again to recharge so we shall see.

Ciao chicos! Susanxo