tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76099826814954698892024-03-05T14:17:32.302+10:00chasing serendipityFatMeercat charges off to South America and Nepal to check out that elusive thing called evolutionary travel. what a lot of big words:)FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.comBlogger82125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-50634201780775164452012-09-07T23:57:00.001+10:002012-09-08T00:15:31.476+10:00on being back in Australia - instinctive familiarityIt's over 2 months now that I've returned to Australia. I've gone through waves of emotion - from tears welling up being greeted off planes by friends and parents, excitement at seeing my nephews, brothers and cousins, joy of seeing old friends and catching up on the years between hugs, moments of missing the travel, depression at forgetting all that I learnt about myself and why I returned, and thankful to good friends who have reminded me, welling in the depths of 'what am I going to do?' and not getting sucked back into the old life, guiltily eating my way through meal after meal of glorious food without much consideration for 'portion control', delighting in having good coffee seemingly materialise all day every day, happily re-acquainting myself with beautiful coastal walks and at the core of it all, struggling to stay centered but somehow moving through it.<br />
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I've been jotting down the odd observation about being back in a place after nearly 5 years way; some are as simple as remembering names of bus passes, or deeper thoughts about the nature of seemingly excessive lifestyles. But I've not yet blogged about it.<br />
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And it's time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful coastal walk between Bondi and Coogee - Sydney really is beautiful</td></tr>
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So here they are... starting with some impressions in the first days:<br />
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<ul>
<li>smell of charred bbq-ing meat carried in warm coastal winds. Something just so uniquely Australian. Thank you Yamba in Northern NSW</li>
<li>immediate sense of familiarity on seeing things and using words, like travel tens (the bus tickets in Sydney, though they are called something different now) , seeing signs like train boards, that I've not once thought of in the 5 years I've been away, yet are immediately familiar to me on seeing them again, watching the characters that board daytime Sydney buses:)</li>
<li>just instinctively knowing where I am - which bus to catch, which road to take, what shops are where.</li>
<li>how everything seems excessive and overwhelming in its luxuriousness. Yet not overwhelming in the way bolivia or nepal was in a dirty basic way, but in Brisbane, where I first felt it, the big big houses on small small blocks of land and how much money people spend on coffee and taxis. somehow people spend lots of energy here on things that I don't think matter much. Or that I felt didn't matter when I first arrived back but I've now already been sucked back in a bit.</li>
<li>the cost of public transport - i mean, $5 to go a couple of train stations?</li>
<li>a perfectly poached egg on toasted sourdough served with fermented black garlic and a side of prosciutto wrapped rocket, roasted tomato and a wedge of avocado. breakfast in hole in wall cafe. only in Australia.</li>
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some things I didn't expect...<br />
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<ul>
<li>being thrown back into childhood memories, like hungry jack stops with my cousin to grab a vegetarian burger and onion rings when we drove from Sydney to Canberra</li>
<li>loving seeing places with new eyes - bowled over at how ridiculously stunningly beautiful Sydney is when you fly in, that actually, i wouldn't mind going and hanging out in Canberra a bit, seeing the museums, sights, riding a bike through the parks where I used to walk through with my grandparents</li>
<li>discovering that everything is walkable. for instance in Brisbane, I have been walking places that before I drove. Or in Sydney discovering that to walk from Potts Point to Bondi Beach actually only takes about 1.5 hours - and you get to do a mini forest walk in Bellevue Hill.</li>
<li>being nearly quite sure that suburban life isn't for me. The feeling I had just walking through my old neighbourhood on a Sunday - past footpath exchanges on the best way to get property valued, the sound of a car stereo accompanying a spring clean, kids scooting around practicing wheelies. Not that any of this is bad, but feeling that I couldn't, didn't see myself in it.</li>
<li>how cool it is to scooter around Sydney. So quick! So easy! So fun! So cheap! You were so right Ceri:)</li>
</ul>
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what I'm getting stuck in...<br />
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<ul>
<li>stalling / forgetting about all that i wanted to do. somehow just not bothering to look at the list I made of things to wanted to achieve when I got back</li>
<li>getting my story straight about what I want to do. Options are good, but this many vague ones? Need to get cracking on crystalising some...</li>
</ul>
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but what have I actually <i>done</i> whilst being back?<br />
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<ul>
<li>spent time with my family - a week in Yamba a couple of days after I got back</li>
<li>caught up with primary and high school friends in Brisbane, going to coffee in trendy suburbs that I'd never been to before!</li>
<li>being endlessly spoiled by friends with delicious meals while we trip down memory lane and more recent histories</li>
<li>stayed nearly a month in Sydney in the thick of Bondi Beach - cat sitting for friends in their beautiful apartment</li>
<li>worked the last 3 weeks in a Jewish bakery across the street. How amazing in challah?! (though, how many pounds have I packed on since starting?!)</li>
<li>a wonderful week in Albury with my friends and ... loving the slower, more open pace!</li>
<li>getting casted for a documentary about being first generation Australian</li>
<li>finalising an article for publishing in a motorbike magazine</li>
<li>knocking back a job offer to do what I did before (I nearly got sucked back in but luckily was rescued;)</li>
<li>sorting out some of my 14 000 pics from travels into photo books</li>
</ul>
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and so, what's next?<br />
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I'm moving to the country!!! oh YES. after talking about this for the, well, last 4 years, I'm doing it! I'm being welcomed into my brother's house in Glen Innes in northern NSW and I'm gonna live there:) actually, just writing that makes me feel happy:) I want to ride a motorbike again - the scooter has been fun here in Sydney, but I want to change gears:) I'll help my brother with his solar business, perhaps work in a cafe or what I'm more keen to do - something in waste, water or community support. Some of my friends are doubtful - you'll last 2 weeks they say, but I have a feeling. I'm gonna like it. <br />
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Meanwhile, I'm feeling good about having blogged again, and I'm going to try to keep perspective on things. It's hard. I'm easily distracted and not particularly reflective on my own. But i'm very lucky to have friends and family around me who are loving, supportive and keep on track.<br />
Thanks everyone:) <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYNmhcYOWvhbVZqtb3eut60HEB6uqcYwqh4SaG7Pcti_AbIGMANCoQO9AakVUL5d1Z64xxHKRMxsKL0mH_U2Bg4PF2hFwDcvesXfb5pEFmChUmlQovc2TzD0uqTi_vALsekhyphenhyphenNlqawGYi/s1600/icahgjba-770653.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5785433779062060338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYNmhcYOWvhbVZqtb3eut60HEB6uqcYwqh4SaG7Pcti_AbIGMANCoQO9AakVUL5d1Z64xxHKRMxsKL0mH_U2Bg4PF2hFwDcvesXfb5pEFmChUmlQovc2TzD0uqTi_vALsekhyphenhyphenNlqawGYi/s320/icahgjba-770653.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sydney standard - Opera Bar.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who knew this is in the middle of the Eastern Suburbs in Sydney?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvjg_hGMmrFHJcNuZvl7sSywzTvrcYAJjs8mkLWbGJcuadYTRFoBZNXzCn0eSegGLvv4vAD5nDxOMLy6-y_Kz7xoFUaEj0Y4_KEY-VtUchBQAKh0FXPXL07hcXx3udk7guLgRy1Lr_7hs/s1600/bgdejjcc-774279.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5785433797428054802" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvjg_hGMmrFHJcNuZvl7sSywzTvrcYAJjs8mkLWbGJcuadYTRFoBZNXzCn0eSegGLvv4vAD5nDxOMLy6-y_Kz7xoFUaEj0Y4_KEY-VtUchBQAKh0FXPXL07hcXx3udk7guLgRy1Lr_7hs/s320/bgdejjcc-774279.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I LOVE these spiders. I'm a compulsive spider web climber...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJbffqoD11kzq9Twj1uPszJ07QSaDKXI3LGH-XCEjnGLFzV7JHaPl6Me94Dkcu3fBW982RlkIL4UUi5fNmctEpBWSP5xlRm7OE6J6MlLswPeaIy0GAOCttVJZpORzqsFDS7LU3nlg4jJy/s1600/dbcibcic-776175.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5785433806011972962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJbffqoD11kzq9Twj1uPszJ07QSaDKXI3LGH-XCEjnGLFzV7JHaPl6Me94Dkcu3fBW982RlkIL4UUi5fNmctEpBWSP5xlRm7OE6J6MlLswPeaIy0GAOCttVJZpORzqsFDS7LU3nlg4jJy/s320/dbcibcic-776175.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Akira - one of the cats I am sitting.</td></tr>
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FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com2Bondi Beach NSW 2026, Australia-33.8908435 151.2742906-33.904024500000006 151.2545496 -33.8776625 151.2940316tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-37860974375427879252012-06-30T18:59:00.001+10:002012-06-30T19:12:47.561+10:00Serendipity found? the dirty truth<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUEge2Rll156yd5h-beMHxo8LaJOyQHF8OAUe5snv1jThrN5LI07X-sjILm1cQHIriGbZAv0ySndJPPzuwts10WBg5viFBoeFMadTkxfsxi2svFQm400XWU3pmeSEA8aKIV1Mtr1cJ7Xn/s640/blogger-image-1731451392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUEge2Rll156yd5h-beMHxo8LaJOyQHF8OAUe5snv1jThrN5LI07X-sjILm1cQHIriGbZAv0ySndJPPzuwts10WBg5viFBoeFMadTkxfsxi2svFQm400XWU3pmeSEA8aKIV1Mtr1cJ7Xn/s640/blogger-image-1731451392.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">serendipity in a campsite playground in northern Chile</td></tr>
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I've been 'chasing serendipity' (or my own tail), if indeed such a thing can be done, around the world these last 5 years... And now that i've finally back on home soil (well the plane has just crossed the coastline near port headland) i want to share some of the reflections and learnings from my travels - before i am happily embraced back into the folds of friends and family and it gradually becomes a whispy memory.<br />
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I guess firstly - on chasing serendipity - can you really 'chase' and catch, the unexpected? Certainly you don't need to run off to a far flung land with a backpack and 3 changes of clothes to find joy, but the kinds of people, experiences and discoveries that transmit this joy are not quite the same as what i was encountering in the tall shiny buildings and urban 'upwardly mobile' set of before.<br />
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So I chose to break away ... and as much as there were many moments on my travels that all i desired was to return to the familiarity of it, it wasn't (isn't) for me. Perhaps it was because of good karma, or it just fell into place, but i was fortunate that 2 years ago all the conditions arose that enabled me, with only responsibility to myself, to embark on such a journey. <br />
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And what a journey... Of course there's all the sensory indulgences and serendipity of moving at the feet of majestic snow capped sky hugging mountain ranges of the himalaya and andes, being stunned by textures and subtle gradients of luminous white of antarctic icebergs, encountering colourful clouds of fluttering butterflies in the jungle or a red lake of pink flamingos in the high planes of bolivia, curling your tongue over fresh roasted nibs in freshly made smooth ecuadorian chocolate, feeling your heart lift at the strains of ave maria being sung at easter concerts in chile or likewise on a jumpy crowded bus ride in nepal to laugh at some bollywood lyrics ... I've waxed on and off using superlative adjectives about all of these on my blog posts already :)<br />
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So ... what i'm going to share now is the the dirty truth of what i've learnt about myself over the last 19 months. <br />
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Oops. Momentary serendipitous distraction... The steward has brought chocolate icecream to eat while we pass over ayres rock!<br />
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Ok. The kinds of things that i'm still coming to terms with and that will need continual intention and effort to realise. Here goes...<br />
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<ul>
<li>my big ego. Before i left london, i used the tall poppy metaphor to my therapist to illustrate that i believed i was special. In fact, i said that i was so special that i had a field to myself. She poignantly observed that was quite a lonely existence. Well. Travel, through continually moving and meeting others as well as some serious introspection with the support of buddhist teachings has well and truly started humbled what i thought was me. I see now that at the core i am the same as others, i am dependent (and need) others around me, and that's ok. In my small field of existence i have special qualities that combine to what i perceive as unique, but 'I' am not unique. In fact, 'my' fabricated 'I' is slowly succumbing and just just starting to dissolve into the universe. Seeing the 'I' and 'mine' for the illusion they are is a lifetime challenge. In deep moments of contemplation, i think i see it as it is, but in practice the mind is so so devious and clever, with so many habits conditioned that my ego reigns supreme 99.999% of the time.</li>
<li>that as self sufficient and independent as i think i am, i need people. It's ok to receive help from someone, it doesn't mean that i'm not capable or not in control, rather i can gracefully accept the gift they are selfishlessly offering. </li>
<li>that being vulnerable or rather showing vulnerability is ok. Building up a wall to hide behind to control everything doesn't bring happiness. That it's ok to experience the negative; pain, fear, loneliness and then not to try and keep it hidden; but to show it. Not to become caught and attached to it, but to express it and let it go. </li>
<li>on feeling and expressing compassion - loving kindness, and empathy - as distinct from sympathy. I'm only just realising how to truly do this (hmm perhaps intricately wound up in the humbling of my ego) and it's hard, and needs continual awareness but through it i i am experiencing deeper connections with people i meet</li>
<li>that as joyful and rewarding it is to do things alone, to be able to feel the touch of some you love and who loves you and sharing these magical experiences is to be treasured. I know one has to love oneself, and in fact loving is in many ways an illusion as you can only love the image/perception you create of the person or relationship, but i'm still unenlightened enough to value/succumb to the illusion. </li>
<li>that i've lost many friendships through moving around so much and being lazy. Though you meet many people while travelling, these relationships are intense but transient, and because they are often circumstantial, ultimately shallow. That's not to say i've not met people that i've felt a deep and lasting connection with, but i know now how much i miss and value old friends - those who've i spent time with growing together. i guess it's easier to maintain more 'contact-full' friendships when you stay in one place, but no excuses. Oh and hugs. As great as skype is, there's no hugs.</li>
<li>that there's many ways to live. Travel, especially in developing countries opened my eyes to people in all walks of life, but the revelation i talk of here is closer to the reality of my privileged life. I am over educated (in mind but not in practical experience), have never been forced into a decision, have every option open to me, have always had enough money to do what i want and i've been surrounded by love and support my whole life. there i was chortling down the corporate career path - not because anyone told me to, or expected it of me, but because i might as well and was ok at it. Then i travel..not the rushed european long weekend, or the hanging out at beach house with others like me, nor a 1 week cultural sojourn to a himalayan village, but the looong term travel... Where you meet the seasonal workers who work 4 months to travel cheap the rest, or others who have given up corporate life for 3 months or 3 years, or families with kids trekking or cycling or backpacking for 1 year, people that go on 3 year meditation retreats, those woofing and volunteering, those that have uprooted their lives to run aid organisations and other businesses in remote places and others with no idea what they are doing in general. These guys give me real inspiration that i too can do something to make a difference. </li>
<li>that though i am learning a lot spiritually from many generous and passionate people, i'm not ready to take refuge in one particular tradition yet. I'm definitely dunking my legs in though and already have found many resonances within with teachings.</li>
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So... That's some of the truths of my travel revealed... sitting here in suburban Melbourne it's almost like a dream - but i know that I have evolved so much as a person. Yes I'm still asking big questions about what to do with my life - but at least now I'm truly happier inside (rather than just distractedly happier) with who I am. <br />
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I'm not sure if I'm going to blog much more - but I am going to put some highlights together of photos and serendipitous moments from the travels, and I guess this will time nicely with a - 1 month after so watch this space! And, more than likely... I'll be off gallavanting somewhere else sometime soon! Perhaps it's even time to ride a motorbike around Australia? get to know my own country better for a change:)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUEge2Rll156yd5h-beMHxo8LaJOyQHF8OAUe5snv1jThrN5LI07X-sjILm1cQHIriGbZAv0ySndJPPzuwts10WBg5viFBoeFMadTkxfsxi2svFQm400XWU3pmeSEA8aKIV1Mtr1cJ7Xn/s640/blogger-image-1731451392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com4Melbourne VIC, Australia-37.8136111 144.9630556-37.838699600000005 144.9235736 -37.7885226 145.00253759999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-52600587059640954302012-06-29T20:22:00.001+10:002012-06-29T20:25:34.989+10:00Sitting in silence againAt 8am this monday i was one of 100 something meditators that were bundled out of minivans and into the thick of kathmandu rush hour. A shock..after 10 days of 9 hours sitting a day, no talking, (trying) to be equanamous to pain and not developing attachment to pleasant sensations, mentally struggling with competing desires, doing deep introspective work as well as getting lost in jumping jack thoughts - it was more challenging than the first course i sat in january, but at the same time a lot deeper and rewarding.<br />
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Perhaps this time around i had been already contemplating and discussing the buddhist fundamentals, but i really found that i could 'test' the concepts through practice; getting an experiential understanding to the intellectual, and finding my way at my own pace.<br />
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It's hard trying to write about it, but it was things like getting a broader grasp that all things, not just the 'tangible' are impermanent, the way our minds fabricate and propagate illusions, what really my intentions are behind my reactions and what i say and do, how 'i' - my devious ego pulls most of the puppet strings, and just the beginnings of how mind and matter feed each other and the separation of them.<br />
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The reality of my day to day sittings was wandering, distracted thoughts, at times succumbing to dozing off, moments of heightened awareness, tweaking of sitting position, being distracted and then marvelling at the capacity of some women to consistently burp every 20 sec for 10min, becoming attuned to sounds that indicated lunch was soon and chancing upon moments of clarity.<br />
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I spent alot of energy not properly meditating, but having an internal debate for the first 6 days as to whether i really wanted to spend the last days of my travels there instead of out enjoying life with new found friends. <br />
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The soothing balm for the intensity experienced were a number of conversations had after we were thrown into the rush hour chaos. With 3 other fellow meditators -caroline, david and kenta, over coffee and waffles we shared experiences and de-briefed eachother and then, later that night, pretty much all of the 20 or so travellers gathered for dinner and relaxed. <br />
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So what next? Am i to be a vipassana practitioner? As before i need to do more research into concepts i struggle with, but i can say that my practice has deepened and i am commited to continue the discovery.<br />
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Just as a side note ... The most wonderful moment of the course both times was when on the final day you see people's faces break into smiles and be expressive. A smile really does light up a person's face:)<br />
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About this tradition of Vipassana meditation...http://www.dhamma.org<br />
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FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-10986385209631769812012-06-15T15:23:00.000+10:002012-06-15T15:23:00.133+10:00Circling the stupa and falling for Boudha<br />
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I love it here. I love the kora rush hour, the sounds of horns, chanting and drums that ring throughout the streets from the 50 surrounding monasteries, the flowing burgundy and amber of the monks robes intermingling with the designs and colours of kurta and (tibetan clothing), the glinting of the gold stupa in the afternoon sun, my favourite haunts of good food, good coffee, and beautiful gardens, that the holiness of this place is ingrained in nearly all who are there, the varied group of people that make morning prostrations, the type of travellers and students i've met here and just well being here.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4-6pm rush hour:) </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At my hotel/Monastary</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from my room</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding the rubbish truck!</td></tr>
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<br />I had intended to deepen my yoga practice in an ashram, but as it has turned out, staying nearly 2 weeks here has turned out to be a wonderful opportunity to indeed practice yoga, but also attend teachings in tibetan buddhism, visit rinpoches and lamas, be inspired by the students of tibetan language, buddhism, visit monasteries, observe the activities surrounding the most auspicious day on the Buddhist calendar here and generally get a taste of boudhanath.<br /><br />
The teachings and conversations of the buddhist lineages here has been fascinating - i'm not looking to take refuge or find a lama, but i'm curious, feel a resonance with many of the concepts and ideas, and have had some special deep emotional experiences.<br />
The yoga has been a welcome change too - I found a wonderful teacher - Amrita, who teaches in the Sivananda school, and also doing some deeper work with her too. At first I had wanted to find the more active school of yoga, but this more meditative, holistic experience has been right for me now. I do belive that I may have to look closer at proper education... there are some fascinating ties with the Buddhism and many other readings I've been doing over the last year.<br />
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So... i'm rushing as I'm leaving for a 10 day Vipassana Retreat this aftenroon - so I've got some pics from my iphone as my other camera trying it's best to get repaird.... and... some SOUNDS!<br />
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the monastery sounds are pretty awesome....<br />
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4CsCtSqPMAjVjduOTZ6WUk2dDA">528AM prayers on Buddha's most auspiscicous day</a></div>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4CsCtSqPMAjd0NPQjJjVVRzMDg">Monks chanting at the Gumpa</a></div>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4CsCtSqPMAjUlctbTJpZkM0NmM">830am prayers</a></div>
<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com2Boudhanath, Kathmandu 44600, Nepal27.7215 85.36180127.707444 85.34206 27.735556 85.381542tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-84094052061433027002012-06-14T15:03:00.000+10:002012-06-14T15:03:54.316+10:00Gushing rivers, mystical forests and wandering off a trail to Tibet<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up at nearly 5000m in Langtang</td></tr>
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It's already been a week since I proudly walked into my hostel in Boudha after walking all the way back from my starting point 150kms in the Langtang area north of Kathmandu. However, after nearly 30 days of continuously long days of up and down trekking, my body sort of cracked it, the friendly gastro bug i've been nursing has come alive, and now; literally the flight up to my room, or three turns around the stupa leaves me drained. <br />
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So a mixed week. BUT, i have managed to practice more yoga, visit Buddhist lamas and hear some teachings, as well as just sleep and relax; so that's all good to. There's much i hope to write about Boudha, where i am now, but before i lull you into the peaceful / rush hour of monastery drums, people doing puja (prayers) and the mst auspicious days in the tibetan buddhist calender; i'd better jot down my last trek. <br />
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I really did come here to trek..after finishing Annapurna i knew i needed to do more, and this time alone. I guess i wanted to see how far i'd push myself, how lonely i'd get, what rhythms i'd establish. And so i found out. <br />
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Turns out that....<br />
<ul>
<li>i like getting up and hitting the trail by 6am, </li>
<li>that a slightly doughy apple pancake gives me more lasting energy than porridge, </li>
<li>that i can storm up 600m on a switchback uphill path after 8 hours of hiking if it's below 3000m no problems, but walking in the morning above 3000m zaps my energy, </li>
<li>that i rarely take my pack off when i stop, that i don't stop for lunch, </li>
<li>that dal bhat/fried rice/fried potatoes doubles up for dinner and lunch the next day, </li>
<li>that i sorely lack protein, </li>
<li>that i'm ok about turning back - but rarely do, </li>
<li>that i'll happily go off trail, </li>
<li>that miraculously i can get up with my body feeling good after collapsing in bed the night before and do another 9 h 2000m ascent day, </li>
<li>that i like walking alone, but miss the comradery of chatting at the end of the day,</li>
<li>that you really can easily go 10 days with little clothing providing you handwash like every single day, </li>
<li>that ponchos really are handy against rain, that sometimes even if you can't see more than 5m in front, you just stick your head down and continue up the path, </li>
<li>that herbal sunscreen doesn't cut it, </li>
<li>that leeches hide themselves in that wet rubbish that you stick in your pocket, </li>
<li>that biscuit wrappers are the most common forms of rubbish, </li>
<li>that great conversations and friendships come from unexpected times and places, </li>
<li>that it's helpful to have something good to read as from 7pm to 5am its dark and you're probably sitting alone in the dining hall or your room, </li>
<li>that solar hot showers are awesome, </li>
<li>that you're inspired and surprised by people everywhere. </li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A unique guide!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">keeping cool</td></tr>
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I started the trek with a 6 hour bumpy busride from kathmandu to shyaphru besi, where i decided to see some tamang villages before starting langtang. I met a schoolgirl on the bus, and following her entire extended family who had been caught in kathmandu during the protests, we walked to gatlang, where her sister lived and she went to school. Gatlang is a traditional Tamang village - and one of the moments that i wished i had a local guide. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gatlang Village</td></tr>
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It is traditional in the wooden houses, local kids slightly corrupted with tourism, in the intricate maze of paths winding in and out of wheat threshing front porches, and a sort of past age air about it. I was impatient though, and not looking for a 'cultural experience' so instead of a homestay i lodged and he next morning, climbed down to Chilime and up up up t Tatopani. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A game called...Carrom - played alot here</td></tr>
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Tato means hot and pani, water, and indeed the town is built around some yellow mud hot springs. Bt that's not why i stayed 2 nights... I had seen on my map a trail that led to the border with Tibet. I really, really wanted to just get there, step over and back. My 7minutes in tibet so to speak. For the 2 tries and 13 hours i spent trying to get there, i composed wonderful, witty and inspirational blog entries about those 7 minutes, but alas i did jot make it. There was close to 1000m elevation gain up to 4000m, i had to get there and back in 1 day, and i just didn't really want to climb the next switchback (and slip ans slide my way back down) yet again. The locals do the journey in 7-8 hours TO tobet, then 5 return so ehat i was attempting was a tall order. But it was still a beautiful, quiet walk, and following up steeply a gushing river would five me a taste of what was to come in Langrang. The next day was a series of 'epic' days...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was knackered - trying to get to Tibet</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There it is...Tibet</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I continued about 2hours from here steadily following the river and climbing - but in the end probably about 2 hours shy and lots of rocks to climb, i turned back</td></tr>
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The days that i did long exhausting days at fast speeds (doing the equivalent of 2 days hiking in 1). Tatopani to landslide/hotspring, then the next day following the huge, steeply rising ( 2000m ascent ) gushing Langtang river to Kyanjin Gumpa at 3830m altitude. My small pleasure..i kept pace and even overtook local porters!! which for those of you who've been here know how amazing those people are. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way up to Kyangin Gumpa - Langtang</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The non trail i decided to follow up to Cherko Ri - ie. scrambling up a landslide</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But well worth it! I would be going to the other side of the mountains next</td></tr>
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The highlights of my 2 night stay in kyangin gumpa was the yummy food and spotless kitchen of Jaggat, the cook/brother of the lodge owner, and my morning off trail ascent of Cherko Ri (4984m). It was one of the most stunning panoramas /views if the tibetan and nepalese himalayan ranges, and after my scramble up the side of a landslide (i had completely missed the path) to be greeted with faded still colourful prayer flags and THAT view, was magical. Definitely the highlight view-wise of the trek. After Langtang i pulled another epic day to reach the sacred Hindu lakes of Gosainkund that sit at 4165m altitude. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Totally different landscape</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrims on the way up to Gosainkund</td></tr>
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They are beautiful and mystic and placid and out of a tolstein novel.. Sitting glittering like jewels amidst rocky, craggy mountains. But the serendipitous occasion happened the night before on the way up which was meeting a French/Japanese couple who on their same trek had decided to stop and volunteer for the month at the local school at Thulo Syaphru. I later noticed a trekking agency sign <a href="http://dontgogently.com.au/">'don't go gently'</a> who had sponsored the health clinc, and have since found out that they also support the same school which has now sparked all sorts of ideas in my part. <br />
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But, unfortunately, i being still a bit selfish and gung ho about continuing, i left the next morning, passing about 300 hindu pilgrims that were coming down from a big festival at the lakes. Unfortunate as i had missed seeing a big festival, but good in that i would have somewhere to stay. <br />
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This night was my social night - i met a great group of trekkers coming the opposite direction - 3 nepali guys with a dutch girl. We had such a great evening as the fog and sunshine came over the lakes talking shit and hatching up plans to climb a 5000m peak the morning after. By this stage though, i was sort of exhausted, tired and wanting to he back. Yes, it happened-i got tired of trekking!! <br />
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Whether because i was lonely, or bodily exhausted, i'm not sure but i knew i was 2 or 3 long days away from 'home'. So the next morning; instead of scaling up yet another landslide, i watched on as a group of intrepid first time mountaineers scaled up a scary looking (as it turned out, perhaps wrong) peak to peer across the beautiful majestic ranges. They were little people on a BIG rock!! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making Chapati in a lodge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road BEFORE wet season. hm.</td></tr>
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I went down though, out of the clear skies and into mist. It sort of stayed like that for the final 2 days of the hike, until i reached the final morning when i walked from across the mountains, and into the city of Kathmandu. Epic end (3 days of hiking into 1.5) to the hike but was i glad to be back!! Hot shower, 'new' clothes, and some non-standard lodge food and i was a happy girl! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh yes. I was happy. This was my final up hill bit finished! I was nearly to ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My victory kitkat chunky!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking the road back to Boudha</td></tr>
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I've pegged out my next set of treks, but theese are a ittle more ambitious and require a rested and fit body, so will have to wait until my next visit to nepal. Which will happen i do believe! sometime well when I have a bit of a bank balance again:)FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Langtang 45000, Nepal28.211769 85.57240328.09983 85.4144745 28.323708 85.730331499999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-10442695877849804322012-05-21T11:39:00.001+10:002012-05-21T11:39:23.218+10:00A strange bandha serenityToday is yet another bandha - protest/strike day in Nepal. The various political parties are arguing about the constitution that is being passed on 27 May. Workers stay home, schools are closed, all public vehicles are not allowed on the road, stones are laid /people lay down to stop any traffic, businesses are closed but yet curiously tourist buses (which i am now on) are allowed to pass and many of the services, restaurants for tourists are open still. <br />
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The big difference is though that everyone is out on the roads, walking but also resting, picknicking as such and just sitting. The air is free of pollution and it's serene and quiet due to lack of horns and inpart to power cuts. <br />
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Interesting, just as we were leaving Pokara we've had about 3 different groups ( with Police looking on) to check that we check are not carrying any Nepali people on board. We do actually - they are the trekking guides and they are hiding down the back of the bus!<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9QgSmHqTT6KaHAaPtHvP1VkZC_mPL6wi6CYTcyY6Wa0NO8umcj8zMvZA-0vyvejQBRdVfkxw_Od_OFpV6UxhNSu67G0nIer-rVkVI94b1zFv2Hhqwny7iN9a6yv3B929TbLPEU01ESdwZ/s640/blogger-image-1176737386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9QgSmHqTT6KaHAaPtHvP1VkZC_mPL6wi6CYTcyY6Wa0NO8umcj8zMvZA-0vyvejQBRdVfkxw_Od_OFpV6UxhNSu67G0nIer-rVkVI94b1zFv2Hhqwny7iN9a6yv3B929TbLPEU01ESdwZ/s640/blogger-image-1176737386.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimORYVXgaz1M1PxZh2sLIm5Dz0y3dLUTJ4YkXMlTzFFIzaqvORD4wIbVm1jQfr1oDc0vQYIHI1B5Rlk8j6Ubm8UIqk_uYsneon34rwlGKyHqhA7kfrKZ08HvJF0PU_3xRo9-GB1zl4x1y7/s640/blogger-image-1575056692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimORYVXgaz1M1PxZh2sLIm5Dz0y3dLUTJ4YkXMlTzFFIzaqvORD4wIbVm1jQfr1oDc0vQYIHI1B5Rlk8j6Ubm8UIqk_uYsneon34rwlGKyHqhA7kfrKZ08HvJF0PU_3xRo9-GB1zl4x1y7/s640/blogger-image-1575056692.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYVTzIr6tjylFf8OVFNl_8iwZJGTIFLg8HUkFwgbHjEEej97yrSUxKj1Avctl7OMhkMhcCDO-MoYr8R-nPT59Anahl3kpMKGrsnsx1tWf7UWi1mkljPNhUIQ_Zjs2rja6Zbxt6sB7L1pob/s640/blogger-image-502645044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYVTzIr6tjylFf8OVFNl_8iwZJGTIFLg8HUkFwgbHjEEej97yrSUxKj1Avctl7OMhkMhcCDO-MoYr8R-nPT59Anahl3kpMKGrsnsx1tWf7UWi1mkljPNhUIQ_Zjs2rja6Zbxt6sB7L1pob/s640/blogger-image-502645044.jpg" /></a></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-90775039017841987542012-05-18T11:48:00.000+10:002012-06-12T21:10:22.723+10:0020 days of trekking Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Thorong La Pass - 5136m on the Annapurna Circuit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A little bit happy coming down from Annapurna Base Camp - at 4130m</td></tr>
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There's something about Nepal - it's the absolute majestic-ness of 7000 and 8000m high soaring mountains, the wonderful blend of hindu and tibetan buddhism, a gentle and curious people in a land still struggling to become a modern nation and something else i can't quite put my finger on.<br />
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But what i do know for sure is how drop dead stunning and gorgeous the lush green valleys rising up to snow capped peaks and glaciers are - and that to move through their rocky and stepped trails on your own 2feet, covering hundreds of kilometres and climbing and stepping down thousands of metres over the course of a couple of weeks is something very special. <br />
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I'm good at recording little details of my travels (like what i spend every day and how many hours i walked and what altitude i slept at) however a little lazy in summing these up to some interesting figures... But, here's a go...<br />
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<strong>Annapurna circuit and sanctuary trek/annapurna base camp (ABC)</strong><br />
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20 days of on average 7 hours walking a day to cover over 300kms, starting at an altitude of leas than 800 and rising to 5416m, walking on rough trails, snow and rock avalanches, through small villages and pine forests, up and down literally thousands of steps (i counted 2009 up steps that we climbed in 35 min after 9 hours of walking), at times getting caught in hail storms, making literally litres of masala tea to while away the rainy late afternoon, paying up to $5 for a dal bhat (rice, dahl with veg/pickles - Nepal's national dish) when you can find it for $1.50 in the cities, waking up at 4am to head up Throng La pass, relishing early morning starts to be rewarded with sunrises, crisp mountain air and stunning viewsp, spending on average $8 a day on lodging and food at lower elevations, to $15 at higher (everything - food, kerosene, gas has to be walked in), still managing to warm-ish showers the way around, and eating some of the most tasty food in unlikely places.<br />
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I started the trek with a roof top bus ride sitting on some dry goods/i don't know after spending a really nice evening wandering around an old hill top called Bandipur. The wrought of tourist vs. Nepali prices is especially so on buses - in fact the bus conductors, if there is an 'agent' around cannot accept a normal fare directly from you...you pay the agent, and then he pays the conductor. For the 250 rupees that i had to pay the agent, my conductor only got 100 rupees.the rest for the agent who travels in the bus a bit then hops off to return to the starting point. Note that this is more for touristic routes, not for a inner city / local bus trip. <br />
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But back to the trek, i ended up back in the bus, and was licky to have a really nce conversation and Nepali language lesson from the bus conductor and local kids who were in there. Words like tapaiko nam ke ho ( what's your name), mahdi (up) and etha (my side /this way ) utha ( your side / that way) were to come in very handy!<br />
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After a starting walk of 2 or so hours i reached the first check point to signal the start of the Annapurna Conservation Area. There I met Marco, a German guy who had been travelling for close to 2 years around southeast Asia. We walked a couple more hours , and then picked a lodge where we met 2 israeli's, a russian guy, Anton and German girl, Kerstin. What's cool is thar though you start separately, you see the same people as the trek progresses - in fact 10 days later Anton, Kerstin and i walked together before Kerstin and i attacked the annapurna sanctuary/annapurna base camp trek together. Check out her blog and pics on: <a href="http://kerstinrieger.blogspot.com/">http://kerstinrieger.blogspot.com/</a><br />
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The trek progressed gradually up and northwards towards the Annapurna massifs; unfortunately there is a road gradually being built around the circuit but for the most part of the 180kms or so there are foot only trails that wind their way around. The trail here compared to the Annapurna sanctuary /ABC was more gradual with less endless steps, but still challenging. Waterfalls started cropping up more and more and by the 4th day of walking we were getting beautiful vistas and views of the ranges. As it is pre-monsoon season the mornings are glorious and clear but first around 4pm, then 3 and 2 pm as we went up, the rain or snow would come lashing down. <br />
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The sunrises usually just after we had set for the day around 6am were stunning - esp the pre dawn light. Up there the pre monsoon dust layer dissappeas so views are stunning if the sky is clear. The sheer scale of the mountains i go on and on about, but these are really phenomenal...and it's not just 1 or 2, but picturesque ranges of these beasts.<br />
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Along the circuit (not so much abc) the tibetan gompas and stupas (monasteries and shrines) with their spinning prayer wheels remond you of where you are, as well as the cinversations you have with tibetan refugees who work here. You read about this, but when you meet Sonam in Tatopani, a 24y/o girl working 6am to 9pm every day, who speaks English and many other languages fluently enough to converse, is witty, clever and obviously intelligent, but because she is a refugee has no identity, passport or ability to move, it hits hime. Here i am swannng around the world for over a year, not working, nor supporting a family ... Just 'exeriencing'. Very humbling.<br />
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You generally walk the circuit anti-clockwise, to get the most out of the views, and frankly because the descent from the high pass is just a bit painful! (as in relentless downhill throgh a gravel landscape instead of the windy path yhrough snow and glacier rocks), and on the way up we also did a side tripto Tilicho Lake.<br />
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At 4630m alitude it's the highest lake in the world, with Lago Titicaca in Peru/Bolivia coming in after xxxx as 3rd. I was lucky to end up trekking with someone who had the same trekking rhythm. If you've ever gone multi-day trekking you'll know it's not aleays easy to be in a group of people with similar speeds, starting imes, eating habits etc. i was lucky , Marco who i met on the first day was a perfect trekking buddy for me and we managed to squeeze about 3 extra days of tougher routes and side trips and still make it around fast ( of course not that fast is an aim but a nice yay i did it kind of feeling). Actually, i was lucky twice as Kerstin and i did the ABC in record time too...though i rather think it was Kerstin who propelled us forward with ideas of hot showers and chocolate cake.<br />
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Anyway, back to Tilicho Lake..we had to pass a fair few landslides to get there ( hats off to the porters who with their 40kg loads make it down and around these at times in sandals) and even though we ended up doing the 3 hour walk up in cloud and fog, reaching up to the snowy frozen bit before reaching a frozen lake and having the cloud part momentarily was elating. <br />
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2 days later we were rewarded though with our 4.30am ascent up from our camp at 4600 to 5416 Thorong La with perfect weather, and this time the adrenalin and just pure elation ( and perhaps slightly the thin air) was runnng high. Stopping halfway up, after overtaking just a few people:) i nearly ran iver and hugged people as thet came up for a rest. Reaching the pass there was much photo taking, jumping around, yoga poses (for pics) and f course some well deseeved snacking. <br />
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After about a hour frolicking around, we startes the relentless descent of 2000m, yes going down 2km in altiude in a couple of hours to reach (after an unfortunate wrong turn/detour) the rather unattractive pilgramage town of Muktinath.<br />
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We had heard great thing about a smaller oasis town (it was sort of gravelly, windy moonscape) called Kagbeni, so after the descent pushed on to the **jeep!! (yes the ONLY transport i took) and after waiting about an hur had enough people to make an extremely bumpy ride here. It was actually hilarious...14 people in 1 jeep, i'm butted up against the deadbolted (from the outside) back door, folded over with head in lap as the bumpy ride means my whole body is jumping into the air and into the ceiling (curiously in time to some justin beeber music!) funny funny ow funny!<br />
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Kagbeni was a complete gem; an oasis of willow trees; medieval houses in small alleyways, a room with the bells f passing mules and goats to wake you up ( though always starting early means that even now i'm waking up at 530am.), a nice lodge and even better roof top dining area. And it was called YacDonalds!<br />
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This half of the circuit is very different and many people take a bus or even fly back to Pokara. There are however trekking trails all well away from the road, and you also miss some beautiful towns like Marpha (apples galore!), Ghasa and many other smaller, now less visited villages. <br />
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In the end i'm glad that i walked this and it gave a couple of days of easy downhill walking ( we up and down and up but generally down) to rest before ABC.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start of loads of up and down, up and down and more up and down!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Kerstin at the Annapurna Base Camp as the sun came up</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Chhomrong Cottage</td></tr>
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ABC was a completely different trek, now instead of going around the mountains, now we were in them. LOTS of up and down and up, but through pine and bamboo forests, the end of flowering pink and red Rhododendrons, lush green dappled forests, across some glaciers, back in bamboo all the way up to the base camps. We did a couple of mammoth days, one being from Chhomrong up to Machaphchhre Base Camp (most people do in 2 or even 3 days) through hail and rain for the last hour. The next morning we walked the hour up to Annapurna Base Camp for sunrise, which was spectacular with first pink then orange then yellow morning rays lighting up the bowl of mountains which we were in. Machapucche or 'fish tail' is a beautifully shaped cone to Annapurna's big massif (like Ama Dablam to Everest) and the great thing about the rest of the trek was that you were rewarded with views of the mountains all the way back to Pokara. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local kids clowning around due to being off from school</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A milky frappucino after our epic walk!</td></tr>
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By this stage, 18 days in, we were both more than ready to head back to city comforts, but the most exhausting day was the last. Due to the bandha/protests, no buses were running so after close to 300kms of walking, and 4 hours that morning of descent, we walked the final 19 kms in just over 4 hours in blazing hot sun back to Pokara.<br />
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Oh but what a reward was to be had! Kerstin introduced me to her favourite coffee shops, and before even heading back to the hotel i was drowning delightedly on a perfectly made, coffee punching (first in 4 weeks) frappuchino. <br />
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Of course this doesn't eclipse all the other memories, but it was a sweet,chilled and poetic end to the amazing 20 days of trekking the Annapurna region.</div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com4Annapurna, Nepal28.5833333 83.9526.7987988 81.4231445 30.3678678 86.4768555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-25398418360074952032012-04-26T22:22:00.000+10:002012-04-25T23:24:46.855+10:00Nepali overtaking strategyI've figured out that this consists of blearing your horn on the build up to and while overtaking...in single lane blind corners, up/down hills, regardless of whether you're a truck, car or motorcycle. <br />
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Oncoming traffic?? They'll just hear you and slow down. Or if it's 2 motorbikes, you just pass eachother in the one lane.<br />
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Crazy...i miss the riding, stopping off where i want etc, but glad to not actually have to drive!FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Pokhara 33700, Nepal28.263611 83.97238928.2496255 83.952648000000011 28.2775965 83.99213tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-35434991816796792072012-04-25T22:21:00.001+10:002012-04-25T23:24:13.038+10:00Kathmandu tranquility and chaosThe small crowded streets of kathmandu have been overwhelming for me; throngs of people with motorbikes and blaring horns weaving through, dogs, cows and people picking through not so neat piles of roadside rubbish, bare tangles of electricity wiring overhead, shops, vendors and tourist touts piled on top of oneanother, and overlaying all this, the heavy smog and fumes infiltrating up your nose and mouth.<br />
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But somehow it feels relaxed too; safer on the whole than south america, less calling out by the men, quiet dawntimes with only a cacophony of birds and the occasional barking dog, and with all the hindu shrines and buddhist temples/stupas, i have found many moments of quiet reflection.<br />
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Yesterday i visited the Boudha, a huge stupa just outside of Kathmandu that is surrounded by monasteries. Legend is that a woman was granted as much land as she could cover with the skin of a water buffalo, and she cleverly cut it up into thin strips and joined them together to create a massive circumference<br />
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You walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction and you can climb up towards the piercing blue eyes of Buddha and 13 gold steps to nirvana. You can join the monks who are dotted around the edge to meditate too, or give offerings for prayers.<br />
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I had a nice time walking around the stupa, stopping here and there, walking around the maze of streets to find various monasteries and enjoying some ginger tea.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boudha Stupa</td></tr>
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It's an interesting mix, you have the normal mess of dirty streets around the pristine white and colourful flagged Boudha, but then soaring mansions and immaculate gardens of the monastery compounds complete with barbed wire fencing. Buddhism is big business here - for both locals and the plethora of foreigners who are either living here or visiting for instruction.</div>
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I mean i get it, the appeal of both introspective work and doing it in a place like Nepal. You really can feel it am g everything else, and i myself am being drawn to more meditation practice and have more interest to visit religious sites, like the place Buddha was born to meditate there. But i also have a bit of cynicism too...not to the practice, but the way we as westerners seem to flock in droves with our pre-determined ideas. And i've not met many foreigners who speak Nepali.</div>
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I'm struggling with that, not being able to easily converse with locals about things, and funnily enough i don't think they are understanding my automatic spanish responses!</div>
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One more rant on us visitors, i was reminded disembarking the plane how we swoop in with our gore tex, high tech hiking gear, over prepared and under relaxed for our planned treks. It sort of feels like overkill, or at least we are some sort of dressed up comedy act ready to perform in the mountains.</div>
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Back to the monastaries...i can highly recommend staying in one instead of the tourist throng in kathmandu. Cost wise it's the same, and you get to enjoy hilltop serenity under beautiful stupas and dine with the monks and nuns. And of course meditate and receive instruction. When i come back to kathmandu that's where i'm headed. (Kopan Monastery)</div>
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Today i'm on the 'tourist' bus (aka sans chickens and rice bags) to Pokhara. I've been feeling a little overwhelmed with everything here, and frankly i'm just over and tired or traveling, so i'm off to find me some Himalayan mountains to wander through.</div>
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Oddly the bus trip is pretty similar; narrow mountainside highways (though for the most part paved) with dangerous passing trucks, and even in the hillside theres inca like terraces carved out.</div>
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Oh and the other good thing? Tasty food and hot chai/chiya in the morning!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cows feasting in central Kathmandu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Durbar Square, central Kathmandu</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaztOq-cJMnVHvGUEEHr_7Uo1e0-_QN3XegUZ3FGeYshkvx3XnJxD7YJY8IAuwLqrltcq_NE26jv9HDcvYsai2aD_iEvFQgopki5OcDziVhEV2n3GKqrg_9L-LSgdfHTJjp7_s1io6TcoF/s1600/IMG_9766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaztOq-cJMnVHvGUEEHr_7Uo1e0-_QN3XegUZ3FGeYshkvx3XnJxD7YJY8IAuwLqrltcq_NE26jv9HDcvYsai2aD_iEvFQgopki5OcDziVhEV2n3GKqrg_9L-LSgdfHTJjp7_s1io6TcoF/s320/IMG_9766.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrine at intersection near Thamel, central Kathmandu at 5.45am </td></tr>
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<br /></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Kathmandu 44600, Nepal27.702871 85.31824427.688812499999997 85.298503000000011 27.7169295 85.337985tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-6460566250984880672012-04-24T00:41:00.001+10:002012-04-25T02:55:04.605+10:00Culture kaleidoscopeOn thursday i left a carribean port town to go to nyc. What i hadn't expected was to land in a spanish neighbourhood in queens, complete with colombian panaderia's (bakerys), taco street vendors, notaria's (legal offices) and spanish spoken in most stores and on the street. <br />
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Two blocks down it turned into little india; in one fell swoop the people, language, stores and atmosphere changed. Then came the philipino neighbourhood. It sort of wowed me and freaked me out a bit too. <br />
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then up the road in flushing, something like a hong kong with large electronic billboards, a line of bubble tea shops, asian clothing and knick knack stores. <br />
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Manhattan was a total change, suddenly 'the' nyc, complete with movie stars, models, upscale grocery stores, jazz clubs and people out everywhere in droves.<br />
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On sat i left nyc, had a quick stopover in london, then ended up in bahrain, who had just had the formula one grand prix. The people changed again, arabs in full white dress were intermingled with sports clad tourists, there seemed to be the odd grand prix girl, and i got to hold a bird in the departures lounge.<br />
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My flight to delhi had a lot more Indians, and now waiting for another connecting flight after 20 hrs of culture kaleidoscopes, i'm looking forward to finding somewhere to sleep when i arrive in Kathmandu.<br />
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On the plane to Kathmandu the people changed again to be more asian looking... Perhaps that's why i am feeling somehow more at home again. <br />
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Now...i've made it ti ktm...it feels good to be back.<br />
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Isn't it amazing that we can experience..i am continually wowed by the people of the world. <div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kHmZ0J3pRmBGJjjRACi_Afz4jg9SZF90RujjuoPLDavZskcri2Z73ALX-tzeipBNATJmb1z95HbHatyf0-op-aeJglhjL3H_FRE6_1uh5aW7y5oxXZ8RVB-zV9mRslI2iH2N3ExhJgmB/s640/blogger-image--154210834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kHmZ0J3pRmBGJjjRACi_Afz4jg9SZF90RujjuoPLDavZskcri2Z73ALX-tzeipBNATJmb1z95HbHatyf0-op-aeJglhjL3H_FRE6_1uh5aW7y5oxXZ8RVB-zV9mRslI2iH2N3ExhJgmB/s640/blogger-image--154210834.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAOKhxbwWIjX5w6anO5lhxTjGLXJpHL42DstRttjU0Xzaf-V1akD8b2Fmaiv8Qfv4QpXK43BT9Mu0SH5RueHuOnwvEQrGrlkPRqIOEcJDdzFjQFNc9anALp6sAtxtx6XIiaTZsLwQfsFGB/s640/blogger-image-1710437710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAOKhxbwWIjX5w6anO5lhxTjGLXJpHL42DstRttjU0Xzaf-V1akD8b2Fmaiv8Qfv4QpXK43BT9Mu0SH5RueHuOnwvEQrGrlkPRqIOEcJDdzFjQFNc9anALp6sAtxtx6XIiaTZsLwQfsFGB/s640/blogger-image-1710437710.jpg" /></a></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-67796470875320438552012-04-20T07:30:00.000+10:002012-04-22T00:39:56.682+10:00ciao :( to south america<br />
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well, it's over....17 months going from east to south to west to north
of south america... I'm now in a plane looking down at the azure blue
atolls perhaps around cuba, and on my way to the USA and then Delhi,
India. I'm so ready to stop traveling, I am really really looking
forward to arriving back in Brisbane, seeing family and friends, meeting
my nephew for the first time, meeting up with old friends and new
babies, and just getting to know australia again!
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<br />i happened to glance in my passport - i got it new just before I left to
live in the UK, so when I return (I have 2 free pages left now, so after
nepal and India, i think i'm going to be cutting it fine!) this passport
will have been a record of close to 5 years away from Australia without
any visits. such an odd and exciting feeling!
<br />
<br />but back to the last couple of days in cartagena... it's a dirty
beautiful city. dirty meaning more that because it's a port, and has a
colourful history it's not just polished and pretty, there's some grit,
loads of colour and character, as well as the very picturesque and
romantic old, walled city. it's hot though, actually the last week or so
has been sticky and salty and hot... such a different landscape and
feeling/culture to the rest of my experiences in south america.
<br />
<br />there's so many ethnicities here at the coast - very different from the
andean cultures with the music somehow not quite as annoying after 6
hours of continuous blaring, the beer is chilled and cools you down, the
colours are vivid, and there's the blue (and grey, lets face it, it's
not quite Caribbean lslands here) of the ocean, and just everything has
a different flavour.
<br />
<br />i'm sad to have missed so much of colombia - but it really is beautiful,
very advanced, completely safe in y experience and somewhere where I
look forward to coming back. the people also - as promised, very
friendly, genuinely interested in chatting and helpful too. And
beautiful. Oh, yes, stunning! though there is an alarming amount of
plastic surgery though!
<br />
<br />so to sign off on south america, here's some of my last impressions... </div>
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Pics from Cartagena...</div>
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And from the previous couple of days along the coast at Minca and Costeno Beach...</div>
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<br /></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-51117367079988126852012-04-18T08:39:00.001+10:002012-04-18T08:39:45.453+10:00Yet another colon lessonThe favourite entertainment of bus trips here are blaringly loud action movies, but a close 2nd is the vendedor naturales... Salespeople that come on to give a informative yet scary lesson on the bugs and worms (complete with pics) that we carry in our intestines. <br />
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To their credit most are exceptional speakers and salespeople..they could probably give quite a few pointers to us all. They also actually are very informative, and give some good diet advice that with all the fried food eaten here is a good thing.<br />
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After the lesson the plants and products that will clean our colons (oh and help with our prostates and cancerous cells) come out- una de gato, boldo, paila. Usually it's a powdered mix of some sort that you mix with juice or water. <br />
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I've never tried them, partly because i'm not to keen to spend much of my morning on the loo cleaning out my colon, but people next to me use it and are buying it in the special 'on bus' special promotion. <br />
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I just wish my dad was here to question them...being a food scientist he loves these types if discussions<br />
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!<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxrP6TEAlPmUaFK5KOjrFdRJAP0mmHVgJEI0va9XaoYZBJd5Aky1WKzuwyyJIwQwH9UxXTupQ4ePbgMC8zzeRnaBBn9TwPFAEwRzsEWOPqijfO7iASWnRf29X3d9eLlKbKABO7kfsrd0g/s640/blogger-image-1364518055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxrP6TEAlPmUaFK5KOjrFdRJAP0mmHVgJEI0va9XaoYZBJd5Aky1WKzuwyyJIwQwH9UxXTupQ4ePbgMC8zzeRnaBBn9TwPFAEwRzsEWOPqijfO7iASWnRf29X3d9eLlKbKABO7kfsrd0g/s640/blogger-image-1364518055.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXs5rT2b862jTzA3wstbcFiEb6GkNTYtGprKW9uIJU_ciz2-OwXEMi9PVONBYNph53zYluV74dfqvSD2fmgDjU3agakDppo-rO0TrwKTBKNezaKP0wlwOZsL3X5UV4Zsi-xFSuoTlEncUW/s640/blogger-image-822383220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXs5rT2b862jTzA3wstbcFiEb6GkNTYtGprKW9uIJU_ciz2-OwXEMi9PVONBYNph53zYluV74dfqvSD2fmgDjU3agakDppo-rO0TrwKTBKNezaKP0wlwOZsL3X5UV4Zsi-xFSuoTlEncUW/s640/blogger-image-822383220.jpg" /></a></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-4652445072812814712012-04-17T13:55:00.000+10:002012-04-25T23:27:57.829+10:00city by city: where did my south american travels take me?I often end up writing rather long emails about where my route took me, where I stayed and recommendations for restaurants, tours etc. So.. for all those planning/on a trip in South America - this is for you!<br />
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<b>ARGENTINA</b> (December 2010 - May 2011)<br />
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<b>Buenos Aires</b> (December 2010)<br />
My first landing point of South America. Unfortunately I was not happy to be in yet another big city that reminded me of other cities in Europe/Spain... but:) definitely go and see La Boca for the beautifully bright houses, and also eat at La Gran Parilla - my first Argentinean steak and it was tasty!<br />
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<b>Puerto Madryn / Peninsula Valdes</b> (December 2010)<br />
If you can time it right to see the whales, do it! <br />
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<b>Ushuaia </b>(January 2011)<br />
If money allows - go to Antarctica! I payed USD3250 for a 9 day cruise but at the time I saw 6000 for 2 people on a 1 month South Georgia/Antarctica cruise too. Pick a small boat (70ppl for instance) as you will get 2-3 landings a day. I went with Antapply. The big hostel in Ushuaia is Freestyle. Campsite above town is also nice. You can do many hikes/unguided walks on your own - Valle de Andorra, Lago Escondido. Ask at the tourist office. No memorable restaurants to report.<br />
<b><br /> </b><b>Puerto Natales</b> - CHILE (January 2011)<br />
The starting point for Torres del Paine. If you're looking for other hikers, Erratic Rock have notices/evenings to meet others. Best Hamburger in South America was on a restaurant near corner of O'Higgins and Baquedano? Like a big open canteen type place with 2 eating areas (smoking an non) with the kitchen at the back. Called Don ?? perhaps. Hamburger was amazing - with Palta (avocado). We found a little house that rented rooms - 5000CHP each.<br />
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<b>Torres del Paine</b> - CHILE (January 2011)<br />
You can do the full circuit - 5-9 days, or the W 3-5 days. Do the full, but be prepared for wet weather. We did it in bad weather in 5. In February. But it was hard, but rewarding. It's pretty expensive to get in the park too, so make it worth it! Try to time doing the Torres in good weather as it was impressive that way.<br />
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<b>El Calafate / Perito Moreno </b>(January 2011)<br />
Uber touristy town. Because I'd been to Antarctica I opted out of seeing the most impressive glacier in the world;) Perito Moreno. But go!<br />
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<b>El Chalten and Fitz Roy </b>(January 2011)<br />
Small seasonal town filled with climbers with some good eating places and hostel to hang out. Remember a coffee shop with decent coffee an cookies behind the school. We had such bad weather hiking in Fitz Roy that we skipped out of more wet hiking days and ended up at a small hostel paying 50 pesos for a night. <br />
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<b>Esquel </b>(February 2011)<br />
Not much in town, but nice hikes around in nearby Parque Nacional de Los Alerces. Camping at Las Rocas. Nice day or multi day hikes. Windy ridgelines though. Local buses to the parque. <br />
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<b>El Bolson </b>(February 2011)<br />
Hippie town. Great afternoon drinking beer and picking up munchies at the nearby market stalls in the main plaza. Nice big camping ground, or lots of hostels. Definitely must have icecream at JUAJA. the BEST icecream ever. Lemon Cheesecake and Tirasmisu. Favourite combo:) A place where you will end up staying more time than planned. Can do day hikes to Lago Puelo (touristy lake), or better yet, a multiday hike to Cajon de Azul. 3 day is a nice route - Hielo de Azul, hike up to glacier lake, Refugio Natacion. Can make it longer. Nice climb up forest, then glacier, big river to hike down. In Esquel 47 pesos for dorm, and like 15 for the campsite. Definitely also hike up to Cerro Piltriquitron. AMAZING view of Andes stretching out before you. You can usually hitch you way up and down to the refugio that is the starting point. <br />
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<b>Barliloche </b>(February 2011)<br />
Very touristy town for good reason. Near to some of the best hike I did and never did. Yes, there is chocolate (try Mamoushka) and of course Juaja icecream. Really, it is the bomb - better than others. But if you can't find Juaja, then go for Grido. It's cheap but really good. Loads of hostels - nice one Periko's. We ended up camping at Lago Guiterrez, nice campground alongside lake with full services. But it was a fair way out of Bariloche. Treks? Nahuel Haupi Traverse. Great trek - Refugio Grey - Refugio Jakob - Refugio Italia. 3 nights ( or in our case we got lost and it was 4 nights;) Other fantastic hikes in the area - ask at the Club Andino. They even allowed us to take a sneaky photo of the topo map. The hike I never did? Across from Pampa Linda, Around Mont Tronador and across the Andes into Chile. Wind way up the lakes in Chile, then up to Villarica and round back to Bariloche. Do it!<br />
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<b>Siete Lagos </b>(February 2011)<br />
Hire a car. There are great places to discover, awesome free camping sites within the national parks. I was in a car from Bariloche to Mendoza, so between these 2 spots. these were my favourites in a northwards order... Lago Trufful. QUENI hotsprings (free campsite then you need to hike 45mins) - beautiful totally natural river/hotsprings, Parque Nacional Lanin (impressive volcano), Copaheue, Canon de Rio Azul (just south of San Juan)<br />
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<b>Mendoza</b> (March 2011)<br />
Yes, there's lots of wine here! Firstly, hostel Empredado is very nice (55 pesos) and best thing! you can use their washing machine for free! I also stayed out in a camping site for 25 pesos. Mendoza itself is a nice enough town, but lets face it, you're there for the wine. There's also a nice wine bar in town that you can sample a decent selection of wines. To see/taste at the wineries, hire bikes out in Maipu. I only visited one out there, called Carinae. It was ok. But the best was Archoval Ferrer. Boutique winery - FANTASTIC wines. Otherwise I was somewhat spoilt by a friend by visiting some other far flung wineries and being treated to beautiful lunch courses. Salentein was big but impressive, Andeluna nice, Altavisa, Malipel. if you can afford it, get on a tour / hire a driver. They'll often take you to smaller less known wineries.<br />
I also did a really nice hike out to Cerro Vallecitos. Can take local bus out of Mendoza, and then hike up and get a 6000m in if you are ready for it! Thats Cordon del Plata, but Vallecitos is a little smaller but the whole hike / ascent is very beautiful. <br />
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Tasting room in Mendoza city- Vines of Mendoza Good place for tastings <br />
Salentein - big dutch owned, great cabernet sauvingon that would cellar well. <br />
Achaval Ferrer - a beautiful winery - some lovely higher end reds. I really liked Finca Bella Vista (Malbec). <br />
Melipal - ok wines, big gourmet lunch (5 courses) <br />
Carinae - small french owned boutique winery in Maipu. <br />
Andeluna - had a picada at the bodega. A nice torrentes there as well. <br />
Pulenta Estate - drank this at Vines of Mendoza <br />
Jean Bousquet - Grand Reserve Malbec - one of the wine critics I met said that this wine made him settle in Mendoza. <br />
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<b>San Juan </b>(March 2011)<br />
Another wine town just north of Mendoza. My favourite there was: Merced del Estero in Valle Tullum. Had nice Syrah for 25 Pesos. HIke out to Dique Ullum, but not so impressive. Just stick to a couple of wineries there:)<br />
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<b>Rodeo </b>(March 2011)<br />
The dam out there apparently is the windiest place, and so it is one of hte best places to Kitesurf in South America.<br />
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<b>Uspallata </b>(April 2011)<br />
Not much in town, but a nice way to drive from Mendoza to Uspallata (on the way to the Chilean border) is via Villavincencio.<br />
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<b>CHILE </b>(February - May 2011, February 2012)<br />
<b><br /> Santiago </b>(April 2011)<br />
At first, I didn't like it here. Too much smog. But it sort of grew on me. I liked the parks, that there was a library in one of them. That there was nice food, and sort of nice living in some parts. But mainly I was there because I was learning to ride and buying a motorbike. Hostels? Footsteps is the cheapest and one of the nicest places I stayed. Depending on what deals are on Hostelworld / Hostelbookers, I paid as little as CHP 3900, and up to CHP6000. It's in Providencia. And another hint - there is a white wine, 1 star Santa Julia bottle that you can buy across on the tienda on Vicuna Mackenna for under 1000CHP. And it's decent. Nice huh! Can do trips out to Cajon del Maipo with visits up to glacier and hiking too. You go near the Concha y Toro winery, but it's pricey to do a tour here (compared to Argentina where you don't pay). Also Cerro La Campana is some nice hiking west of Santiago too. <br />
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<b>Valparaiso </b>(April 2011)<br />
I loved this city for the mix of all walks of people, the colourful houses and all that seafood! Also south of Valparaiso are some poetic places to visit - in Isla Negra where Pablo Neruda (Chilean politican and poet lived) and a nice cute hostel, The Poet's Madness.<br />
<b><br /> Huasco </b>(May 2011)<br />
By this time I was riding on my motorbike, so I've skipped a bunch of places. This fishing village though is up north of La Serena. I just like it, and tasty empanadas and met some very friendly locals. In particular Fernando Jimenez.<br />
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<b>Copiapo </b>(May 2011)<br />
Yep, nothing here! Just on the way to the border crossing to Argentina. But this border - Paso San Francisco is pretty stunning! If you can, try and cross the Andes in these parts - either Paso Agua Negra, or Paso San Francisco, or even up to Paso Jama. (The crossing from Salta to San Pedro)<br />
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<b>ARGENTINA</b><br />
<b>Fiambala</b> (May 2011)<br />
A sleepy town close to Paso San Francisco, here you can organised with local climbing legend, Jonson Reynoso (<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:andestravesias@hotmail.com">andestravesias@hotmail.com</a>) an ascent of Ojos del Salado. <br />
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<b>Cafayate</b> (May 2011)<br />
My favourite town in Argentina. Another wine region, but woo hoo, this time many of the wineries are walking distance from the town/hostel. Stay at Rusty K's - nice courtyard and rooms. 50 pesos for dorm. On the way there, after visiting a pre-Inca ruin called Quilmes, I chanced upon a new winery called Los Arcas de Tolombon - the young range, Siete Vacas was fantastic. Cab Sab and Torrontes fantastic. Beautiful scenery around - good way to see it is to hire a bike from Rusty K's (50 pesos) and take bus up to Garganta del Diablo, then cycle back the 50kms to Cafayate. The road north of Cafayate to Cachi is stunning too - past cute adobe towns like Molino, famous wineries like FInca Colome, and through desert, moon like rock landscapes. Option could be to hire a car in Salta and do this loop at your leisure.<br />
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<b>Salta </b>(May 2011)<br />
I didn't actually like the centre of Salta much, but it had a fairly nice vibe. North of Salta though, is a motorbike rider's dream road to Jujuy, and just west of there are some nice thermal baths. The most picturesque part is the Quebrada de Humhuaca towards the Bolivian border. Cute towns such as Tilcara are sweet. <br />
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<b>Parque Nacional Baritu</b> (June 2011)<br />
This is Argentina's northernmost and most remote national park. It's sort of high jungle, and has a huge range of wildlife - especially birds. To get there, you actually need to go into Bolivia first, and then back into the national park which is back in Argentina. Very small towns and communities, hardly any visitors, muddy roads but an off the beaten track place to visit.<br />
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<b>Tarija </b>- BOLIVIA (June 2011)<br />
I really liked Tarija. Admittedly there's not that much there, but the surprising thing for me was the wines I got to taste. Really high quality reds, and something like USD6 for a mid range boutique wine. I cheated, and just visited the wine bar just down from the tourist information in the centre. I also got to have my first salchipapas on the street - 50c for a cone of fresh fried potatoes, sausage, lettuce, tomato and mustard. Yum!<br />
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<b>San Pedro de Atacama</b> - CHILE (June 2011)<br />
A super tourist, but cute adobe town that is used for the starting/ending point for tours of the Salar de Uyuni. Lots of hostels and cabanas, but I stayed at El Anexo (just on the road out to the border). Built from adobe too, the best thing was Arturo, a French chef/baker/traveller that got stuck:) He baked baguettes every morning in the outdoor adobe wood oven that were to die for. Bread here is of the soft, sweet, white variety, so this was a real treat. Rooms were nice, and I shared a private double paying 6000 each. There also was a really nice restaurant in town that was called something like Natural ... but cute adobe inside, with open fires, and really great fresh (and so far from Argentinean/Chilean) food. Around San Pedro, you can visit the Geyers de Tatio, Valle de la Luna, and some other villages/salt flats around. Actually not a bad place for a couple of days. Oh and there was free wifi in the tiny town plaza!<br />
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<b>BOLIVIA </b>(June 2011 - September 2011)<br />
<b>Salar de Uyuni and Laguna Colorada</b> (June 2011)<br />
An absolutely stunning place. An absolutely must see. Take a tour, ride it yourself, just do it! We had wanted to come from San Pedro, but due to snow the border was closed, so instead came into Bolivia from the west. Then down past the Arbole de Piedra (camping there) and down to see the magnificant Laguna Colorada with it's rusty red colour and pink flamingoes. We even camped in the restaurant beside Salar Chilviri and was bombarded in the morning with all the travelling jeeps that cruised in for breakfast. Up then via Villamar, to Uyuni, from where we took a tour out to see the Salar. We had hoped to ride into it, but there was still some water at the edge. Tours are 3 days usually, but try and take a bit more time! <br />
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<b>Potosi</b> (July 2011)<br />
This is where you can visit the silver mine. It's not for anyone who is claustrophobic, or doesn't like hot, small spaces. Also if you choose not to see them. I actually didn't think there was much more to this town, though some others thought it was really beautiful. Stayed at La Casona Hostel which were our first hot showers in 3 weeks and it was the bomb! 50Bol each to share a double private room.<br />
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<b>Sucre</b> (July 2011)<br />
LOVE this town! Not actually much to do activity wise I guess, but a great place to take Spanish Lessons. I stayed at Hostal Pachamama (45Bol each to share private room with bathroom) which has a beautiful courtyard complete with hammocks, wifi, big kitchen and is close to the market. Studied at Me Gusta Spanish School. Two main gringo hangouts - JoyRide, and Florin. I liked Florin better - and their Bife de Lomo (45Bol) was fantastic steak. Actually, there is stuff to do activity wise - climbing, riding, quad biking, hiking - check with Off Road Bolivia and Henrry who you will likely run into at Florin.<br />
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<b>Jungle tour from La Paz</b> (August 2011)<br />
There are quite a few of these, we went to Rio Verde through an Israeli guy who runs tours. Shaol. He organises things from his obscure apartment in the central tourist district. Good value but perhaps a little lower standard. We chose rafting, and built our own raft, and explored a fair fiew rivers/canyons. <br />
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<b>Ruta del Che and Samaipata </b>(August 2011)<br />
You can track along the last steps of Che - he was gunned down near a small town called La Higuera and then executed in it's schoolroom. You can stay next door (camping or room) in the house used for the telecommunications. Also a french run place across the road that has great food. Can go via Vallegrande where there is a good museum that details the activities and missions of the Guerrillas. Town itself is not too exciting. Samaipata on the other hand is a great place. A bit hippie, but really relaxed and laid back. Lots of farms too - and like at Finca La Vispera where we camped. They had a fantastic restaurant with nearly all the ingredients coming from their gardens. Nice camping setup too. 30Bols to camp. In town there were great places to eat too, and I hear there's a bar run by 2 Australians that is quite good too!<br />
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<b>Santa Cruz</b> (August 2011)<br />
Big city. Not so exciting, but a jumping off point for other places. HI Hostel Jodanga is ok, but a little pricey for the private rooms. <br />
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<b>Jesuit Missions Circuit </b>(September 2011)<br />
The Jesuits came and set up missions all around the north and east of Santa Cruz. The result now is some stunning woodwork on the timber churches, and surprisingly a lot of stringed instruments are still played and taught in the small towns. We visited Concepcion, and then headed back west towards Trinidad. It's hot and muggy here though. There is a full loop you can do (on the way to Brazil/Pantanal) but it is quite long and the roads are bad.<br />
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<b>Trinidad</b> (September 2011)<br />
This town is packed to the hilt with motorbikes! It's also the port of the route the barges take into the Amazon - so if you want to head deep into the thick of things, you can buy passage on a hammock up the river. Note that get a barge that travels through the night too - otherwise you will be eaten alive by the mosquitoes. The food gets a little monotonous - the same day after day, and there are various levels of hygiene in play. These boats head up to Guayamarerin, where you can go into Brasil, or head west and around the top of Bolivia and into Peru at Puerto Maldonado. Due to the wrong season, we were not able to find a boat leaving in time to take us and the bikes, so we headed west via the roads.<br />
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<b>Rurrenabaque</b> (September 2011)<br />
The jumping off point for the Bolivian Amazon, this is the most economical way to see it. There are 2 main types of tours - Pampas or Jungle. Both are 3 or so days each. Pampas means animals - crocodiles, pink dolphins, birds, whereas Jungle is experiencing being in the Jungle. Mogli Tours came highly recommended. There's a back way to get to La Paz through more jungle, but otherwise most people opt to fly instead of the 24hour harrowing bus ride. We drove it though, and it didn't seem so bad but we took 5 days to do it. Rurre is quite a small town, but there's enough to relax after the tours. No ATM though.<br />
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<b>Coroico</b> (September 2011)<br />
The end point for the downhill mountain biking route, this is quite a beautiful town perched on the hillside, all cobblestone streets. Usual array of touristic restaurants, but you can get Spetzle at the Back-Stube Konditorei. (How German!) Nice walk up the 12 stations of the cross to get a view of the town.<br />
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<b>La Paz </b>(September 2011)<br />
Big city, capital of Bolivia, you're likely to end up here. Usual array of hostels, many good restaurants in the tourist centre, interesting markets (such as the central everything market, the witches market, the absolutely everything market in El Alto) but just watch you bags. <br />
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<b>Copacabana and Isla del Sol</b> (September 2011)<br />
One of my favourite places. Loved the feel of Copacabana, all that trout you can buy in the food stalls in the market, the feel of the town, the colourful weekends/Sundays when cars get blessed, the walk up the hill. I stayed in a bit of a run down place, but Mery was like your unkempt but super friendly Aunt. Definitely head out to Isla del Sol - you can do it in 1 day, but I would recommend taking camping stuff or staying in on of the affordable hostels (30 Bols for single private room) and go for 3 or 4 days. Nice place to relax, do walks, see ruins, get into local town. In Yumani (southern half) where most of hte hostels are, there is a small restaurant called Las Velas. It's out in the Eucalypt Forest at the top of town, no electricity so get there before sunset, but fantastic steamed red wine trout. (55 Bols I paid for the dinner plus wine)<br />
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<b>PERU </b>(October 2011 - March 2012)<br />
<b>Puno</b> (October 2011)<br />
You go to Puno to see the floating reed islands. I didn't though - but if you can stop 1 night and do a tour, then do so. I preferred to enjoy Lago Titicaca from Copacabana. There is a Cruz del Sur Tourist bus that goes from Cusco to Puno, that you get to stop en route at a couple of places, so this is a good choice if you are heading north or south.<br />
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<b>Arequipa </b>(October 2011)<br />
Arequipa is another colonial city whose centre is made from white volacanic stone giving it quite an atmosphere. It's beautiful, has the iconic Misti Volcano on the skyline, and has a good selection of restaurants. I got stuck there for dental reasons, but enjoyed it mainly due to the place I stayed. This was La Casa de los Pinguinos... run by Alex who knows everything about the area. She has made a really top notch hostal, that is a nice place to relax (either reading from her library, watching videos, or out in the garden in hammocks) and use as a base to see the town and Colca Canyon. She can give you more info on seeing the Colca, but there's 2 ways essentially. Either do it on a tour (which isn't actually that much more than organising yourself) or go on your own. Tours are 2-4 days, you could easily spend 1 week doing it. Bus to Chivay (hot springs), onto Cabanaconde (via Cruz del Condes) to stay at Hostal Pachamama (15 soles/night includes breakfast), then hike to San Jose de Chiquitos/Tarqui/Cosnihura, in Cosnihura as you walk in on the upper (right) side is 1 of the 2 hostals - run by Sonia with her 6 y/o son Ken. Delightful place! Then down to Sangalle de Oasis to chill, and a early morning climb up to Cabananconde. There's also more extreme hikes across Valle de los Volcanoes that you can enquire about in Arequipa. <br />
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Another more backpacker places to stay is Flying Dog - it's new so in good condition still:) It's also near a great pizza place called Los Lenos on Calle Jerusalem. On the whole food is great in Arequipa - for fish, have lunch (no dinner) at El Tio Dario at Mirador Yanahuara, or ask Alex for the fish place (where you can eat Espanda - swordfish) near her place, or other places in town like ZigZag (where you get meat served on hot volcanic stone) or La Creperie. Another thing not to miss in Arequipa is Monestario Santa Catalina. Great history, stunning photos.<br />
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<b>Cusco </b>(October 2011)<br />
This is the most touristy spot in Peru - and for good reason. Not only for Machu Picchu, but there's loads to do - hiking and cultural around Cusco. It's also a pretty city too. Ecopackers is a backpacker located centrally, but we found so many nice little hospedajes (also up in San Blas) to stay for cheaper too. So, I'm not going to go through everything you can do, but when you arrive, head to the South American Explorer's Club in San Blas. They are not an agency, but a not for profit organisation. Impartial info on what you can do around Cusco, alternative ways to get to Machu Pichu, good hikes (from day hikes, to visitng Huchuy Cusco, to circling Ausangate). You can easily spend at least a month around Cusco. Make sure you spend some time in Ollantaytambo too (its on the way to Machu Picchu). I really liked this place:) and the english run aid cafe - Hearts Cafe is nice too (and has wifi:)<br />
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There's loads of restaurants - my favourite for lunch was Graja Heidi, I liked the Indian British run curry house up in San Blas, liked hanging out in the cafes, loved playing around in Aledea Yanapay ( a kids cafe complete with hats, toys and a alcoholic menu). Too much to do and see!<br />
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<b>Huacachina and Pacaras </b>(December 2011)<br />
Huacachina is where the dunes are, it's between Arequipa and LIma on the coast, and apart from 1 afternoon to go sandboarding, you don't need much more time here. Paracas is further north (past Nazca) and is a bit more interesting. You can go on a half day tour of the Islas Ballestas to see pengins, birds and sealions, and also go into a big park to see some pre inca ruins (I think). Bargain down on the boat rids, I got mine as cheap as 20soles for the half day.<br />
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<b>Lima</b> (December 2011)<br />
I actually went to Lima 2 main times, and 4 times in total. It's a bit city, most people end up in Miraflores which is nice enough. Ooh there big deluxe supermarkets which is fun! You can paraglide off the cliffs. Lots of hostels in Miraflores - I stayed in a couple and like Kokopelli the best for a backpacker dorm, and I guess Flying Dog was ok for the privates. South of Lima (day trip) you can see a pre inca ruin - Pachacamac too.<br />
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<b>CHILE<br /> Arica and Iquique</b> (February 2012)<br />
I went back south to sell my bike, so here's a little about these 2 places. They are pretty dry and unexciting - Iquique is the more entertaining of the two. You can swim closer to the hostels here, there's good icecream and sushi places, more nightlife. Also a tax free shopping zone. In Arica it's similiar but not quite as exciting - stay at Hostal Colonial, it's a nice vibe and cheaper than the standard Surfhouse hostel. <br />
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<b>PERU<br /> Huaraz</b> (March 2012)<br />
Another great base town to explore the surrounding Cordillera Blanca y Negra. There are some day hikes - like Laguna 69 and Laguna Churup - and some you can extend into multi day hikes. When I was there the Santa Cruz was half closed, and it was too wet for Huayhuash so two big unfortunate situations. Huayhuash is meant to be amazing - one of the best hikes in the world, and Santa Cruz although popular, still has is charms. A place I want to return to and hike my heart out! THere's also a couple of mountains (under and over 6000m) you can summit. For climbing/rock exploration, head to Huchuy Matay in the Cordillera Negra.<br />
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Good tasty places to eat too... Cafe Andino is a nice (though gringo) place - sort of feels like a cafe in Australia. And.... they have Chai - and soy milk! Heaven for me. So I could get a 1L french press of soy chai tea for something like 11 soles (USD4.50). Good food too. Next door there is a Anticoucheria - where they bbq beef hearts. Very tasty - a plate of 1 skewer, with potoato and sets you back 3 soles. <br />
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<b>Trujillo </b>(March 2012)<br />
I literally spent 1 day here - I came on a night bus from Huaraz, and left that night for Chachapoyas. I spent the morning seeing pre inca tombs - Huaca de la Luna y Sol, and missed out on seeing the other ones - Chan Chan. If you can, see both! Why not hey!<br />
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<b>Chachapoyas</b> (March 2012)<br />
Really like the vibe of this high jungle town. If it were not for my schedule, I would have stayed longer - small town, nice vibe, lots to explore a couple hours from town. I stayed on the Plaza at Hotel Revash (20soles/night for private room) and through them got some good deals to see the Gota waterfall (quite impressive) and Kuelap ruins (uber impressive). Totally different from Machu Picchu - and very tranquil. Very special pace to see before it is overrun by tourists. There are many more things to see in Chacahpoyas, so I think you could easily spend 1 week there. <br />
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<b>From Peru to Ecuador </b>(March 2012)<br />
This is a 2 day route - but I really enjoyed it so want to detail how it happened. From Chachapoyas, you have to get to San Ignacio. To do this, you can either take a series of collectivos (shared taxies) to Jaen, and then San Ignacio, or do what I did, and hop on a Chiclayo bound bus, getting of Chumajo, take a cab to Jaen, a tuk tuk to the other collectivo station, a collectivo to San Ignacio, sleep there, next morning another tuk tuk to the collectivo for Las Balsas (the border), then walk across the border, wait for the Ranchero truck to take me to Zumba, then take a bus to Vilcabamba. A little stop start, but nice scenery, including rice paddies and muddy roads, and beautiful valleys.<br />
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<b>ECUADOR</b> (March - April 2012)<br />
<b>Vilcabamba</b> (March 2012)<br />
This is Ecuador's answer to the hippie town - I think a large majority of american hippies must of ended up here. But the start attraction is a hostel called Hotel Izchayluma. Dorms are USD10, and you get a beautiful resort, with pools, bars, full fruit laden buffet breakfast and breathtaking views. Highly highly recommended! Usual array of vegan/veg friendly cafes in town with brownies etc, and also some nice day hikes to do from the town too. <br />
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<b>Cuenca</b> (March 2012)<br />
LIke Sucre and Arequipa, Cuenca is a beautiful, genteel colonial town. It's somehow more gentle and delicate, but there's a great array of restaurants, a microbrewery or two and about a gizillion churches. No stand out restaurants, all the main touristy ones were pretty awesome. Good icecream too at Tutta ...? on the main square. Never fear, this is a chain so you'll see in in the rest of Ecuador too. Out of Cuenca you can do a day/multi day visit/hike to PN Las Cajas. Beautiful rolling scenery with many lakes. Oh and the other thing for Cuenca - get a Panama Hat! Cause they actually come from here -t hey were only shipped via Panana so that's how they ended up with that name.<br />
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<b>Riobamba</b> (March 2012)<br />
This is the starting point for Chimborazo, the highest mountain in Ecuador. What's cool is you can hitch a ride up / take the bus, and then walk/ride up to the first refugio (at 4800m) and then walk to the 2nd refugio at 5000m. Here's a fun fact, even at the first refugio, at 4800m, you are 4KM higher than the TOP of everest - thanks to the 'bulge' of the earth. Cool huh! There's a new bar called Abbey Road in Riobamba, run by Wladamir, who who runs a tour agency that arranges amongst other things, Volunteering too.<br />
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<b>Banos</b> (March 2012)<br />
A fun town with lots to do and see! High jungle, but not too humid. Lots of adventure sports, like canyoning, rafting, riding, buggying, motorbiking. Nice tours of the cascadas. Many people head east from here to visit the jungle proper, but we didn't. Stayed at a nice hostel called Hotel Chimenea (USD8.50 each to share a double room - very cheap!) that had wifi etc, and in house spa too. Hang out with the locals and esp chat with the older men and women at the municipal baths below the waterfall on the end of town. Great place to swap stories!<br />
Nice restaurants in town too - Swiss Bistro was tasty, I've heard the Samurai Sushi is tasty, and of course there's a few bars like Leprachaun. <br />
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<b>Latacunga and Quilotoa Loop </b>(April 2012)<br />
If you want to climb Cotopaxi, then it's a nice place to start from. You can do some acclimatisation hiking around Quilotoa (stay at Mama Hildas in Chugchillan while on the loop) for 1-4 days, and there's some beautiful views from there too. The crater lake at Quilotoa is gorgeous and on a clear day you're supposed to be able to see Cotopaxi. In Latacunga, Hostal Tania is nice, but unfortunately next door is a gym and the base of the gym classes resonate through the rooms in the hostel from 7am to 9pm. Otherwise it's a sweet hostel with a great common area and kitchen. You can book Cotopaxi from there too for USD170 for 2 days. Make sure you are property acclimatised though.<br />
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<b>Mindo</b> (April 2012)<br />
Like Banos, but smaller. Loads of Hummingbirds too! Best place to see them is in a hostel in town is in a hostel (you can also stay there for USD 18 each) at the end of the road that Jardin de los Pajiritos is (where we stayed for USD10 each including breakfast). Hands down though you've got to go El Quetzel - a small boutique chocolate place where you can do a nice tour and see how they make their very very tasty chocolate! I also did some canyoning and ziplining to make up for missing it in Banos. USD15 for each for a couple of hours.<br />
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<b>COLOMBIA </b>(April 2012)<br />
<b>Popayan </b>(April 2012)<br />
We were here for Semana Santa, and it was packed out with families relearning the last day so of Christ, long, slow serious processions and oddly, sort of a party atmosphere too. Stayed at Parklife hostel which is nice because it's ON the plaza (it's next to the Cathedral, actually it probably was part of the Cathedral) and ate at some nice places in town. More coffee shops with espresso too! <br />
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<b>Salento</b> (April 2012)<br />
This small cutesy town had one of the best hostels I've ever stayed in - Hostal Tralala. Great spaces, very clean, very nice detailing on rooms and common spaces. Wish we could have spent more days here! There's a couple of coffee plantations you can visit around town - and also some hiking into wax palm tree forests in the Valle de Cocora. Around this area there are a fair few confiscated / ex drug lord houses that you might stumble onto! Cheap, but tastiest Almuerzo (set lunch) at Rincon Lucy for 6000COP, and then nice coffee at Jesus Martin.<br />
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<b>Medillin </b>(April 2012)<br />
This was a bit of a whirling visit, and we were staying at my friend's apartment, but did manage to swing by a tasty tasty natural foods cafe/bakery, and have a very wholesome, non greasy!! meal and buy some chocolate and almond bread:) at Salud Pan. in Barrio Los Laurels, Circular 3. <br />
<b><br /> MInca</b> (April 2012)<br />
Small town above Santa Marta - so if you want to escape the heat of the coast, head here! 45min and 6000COP from town. Book head to stay at Casa Loma, up quite a steep hill, but great vibe and you can sleep in hammocks. Also camping is there too. Walks to waterfalls, or visits to La Victoria Coffee FInca can be explained by Jay, the English owner.<br />
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<b>Constena Beach</b> (April 2012)<br />
Just outside of the area's main attraction, PN Tayrona, this is a new surfing hostel right under the coconut palms near the beach. You eat together at the big table, play beach volleyball together, go for surfs, lay in the hammocks, relax or explore the driftwood plenty beach. Weather wasn't pictureperfect when we were there, but sort of a little taste of the Caribbean nonetheless!<br />
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<b>Cartegena </b>(April 2012)<br />
A gorgeous, stately, dirty port city, it is a wonderful mix of different cultural influences, beautiful architecture and plentiful food! You need a couple of days here - really worth just sticking around a week if you need a bit of urban rest. Also interesting to visit the Castillo San Felipe (fort) which has made many computer games famous:) Heaps of hotels on Calle Media Luna - we stayed just off in a guesthouse called Hostal de las Americas - very decent price for the front double room.<br />
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<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com1Cartagenita, Cartagena, Bolivar, Colombia10.3873369 -75.519663110.371718399999999 -75.5394041 10.4029554 -75.4999221tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-23404751045936913472012-04-15T06:00:00.000+10:002012-04-25T23:31:52.714+10:00Bayou orzo - recipe (New Orleans)Found this recipe from when I was in New Orleans - it's like a seafood risotto - but somehow because yo use Orzo it's not as starchy...<br />
Thank you to Louis for teaching it and preparing it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_K4KlU41s0QAa8OW_2TljvNoJTLyMZV51BNsqU7JUO0NrTjdw-HCoXjCq8wvIiLxhx-JmcBz0gsGzBMnOPJ8PMtwZfW7JaezkxP3QjzfSK2wagY52Va7HwisatGRd0xpndB2h7AUq-Quz/s1600/iebdehcd-717928.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5732501947461177874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_K4KlU41s0QAa8OW_2TljvNoJTLyMZV51BNsqU7JUO0NrTjdw-HCoXjCq8wvIiLxhx-JmcBz0gsGzBMnOPJ8PMtwZfW7JaezkxP3QjzfSK2wagY52Va7HwisatGRd0xpndB2h7AUq-Quz/s320/iebdehcd-717928.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Bayou Orzo<br /> </b> <br />
1 1/2 tablespoons first cold pressed olive oil<br />
1 finely chopped green bell pepper<br />
1 pound andoullie sausage (smoked spicy sausage) cut into pieces<br />
1 finely chopped medium white onion<br />
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh garlic<br />
2 tsp smoked paprika<br />
1 pound peeled and cleaned prawns<br />
1/2 cup dry white whine<br />
1 bottle (8 ounce) clam juice / fish stock<br />
1 1/2 cups orzo cooked<br />
2 tbsp dried thyme<br />
2 cans plum tomatoes chopped drained<br />
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Heat oil in large deep skillet over medium high heat. Saute sausage for 5 minutes. Add bell pepper and oinion to pain. Saute 2 minutes. Add garlic and paprika. Saute 1 minute. Add prawns, wine and fish stock. Bring to a boil. Stir in cooked rice. Cover and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. Place pan over medium high heat. Stir in 1 tbsp thyme and tomatoes. Cook 2 minutes until thoroughly heated, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tbsp thyme.<br />
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Serve!<br />
<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0New Orleans, LA, USA29.9510658 -90.071532329.5108158 -90.7032463 30.391315799999997 -89.4398183tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-2508658205754780482012-04-09T13:12:00.001+10:002012-04-09T13:33:04.602+10:00Easter in Popayan sans chocolate<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8OD0viJyeUGlhJfzEPasisViCL7Yr-PsUPRNPJf8juQGzVuXwSJwSHLIQCT3OE2GP9GvTRbU6bQ07GIhm4NY1IEVibbCZSBKCnWoO5tnEe4yS7VwkVbT7LQbelgs-rprEJrwjLF1nWUDq/s1600/iagidjha-770885.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233707115828434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8OD0viJyeUGlhJfzEPasisViCL7Yr-PsUPRNPJf8juQGzVuXwSJwSHLIQCT3OE2GP9GvTRbU6bQ07GIhm4NY1IEVibbCZSBKCnWoO5tnEe4yS7VwkVbT7LQbelgs-rprEJrwjLF1nWUDq/s320/iagidjha-770885.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubba, Dixie and Philipe just before the procession reaches us</td></tr>
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Easter here is a very different thing that what I've grown up with. For one, there's no chocolate, no bunnies, no hunting. It's much more what it actually reflects - the solemnity around the death of Christ and his resurrection. Even here it is more solemn than I saw in the very catholic Malta a couple of years back. it's a time for families to gather, many visit the 12 stations of the cross while reciting the appropriate prayers and stories, and the procession here was very slow and sad.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB_mOL1qpWhDvsJdoi2eJuABlWWltIktlyCkJnEFkz2wTZTYlMFWZ8RSwKVEb65qDf-z7ir72ZHYg2c3BfYNmNf_MRTHWpRlQYSQV84p2VbfD1LQO-VxAWTfGU_pNGPWkaHJSgWHczvYEB/s1600/gfbeeigi-772531.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233712023288642" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB_mOL1qpWhDvsJdoi2eJuABlWWltIktlyCkJnEFkz2wTZTYlMFWZ8RSwKVEb65qDf-z7ir72ZHYg2c3BfYNmNf_MRTHWpRlQYSQV84p2VbfD1LQO-VxAWTfGU_pNGPWkaHJSgWHczvYEB/s320/gfbeeigi-772531.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral in Popayan - actually our hostel was in the old convent building adjacent to the dome</td></tr>
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On Thursday Philipe, Dixie and Bubba and I arrived after a rather long, read 12 hour bus ride that was 5 hours extended because of a breakdown. Although it enabled us to drink beer and eat copious amounts of ice cream all afternoon, we arrived into a wet Popayan after dark, and were pretty much escorted by a really kind couple to the hostel. Lucky we had called that afternoon to book, as I don't think any of us were up for walking around hunting out somewhere to stay in a city that its centre closed off for processions in the dark and wet.<br />
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But we made it in time, headed out to wait for the parade, gave up after 2 minutes and instead hunted out some much needed, 'proper' food. Bubba and Dixie were wowed by some chunky soups, and I feasted on a plump trout while Philipe had a very juicy steak. We did see a bit of the procession - it was slow, very sad, very thumping due to the militar drums, and after about half an hour, I got tired and followed the others back to the hostel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZY3Ok2eEv0RlPOoXp5QqxjtSDxMvoevxIE3WJpggoCTUvAoLMVH12TV7wZAbW_-wzBJmrLm2EKz53Lnf6jmGyGznNSwbscgWd9smuEVl4wxzpfvqya-rHdo7-iJU_fXMu-kcMqol9nU-/s1600/jfjgfejb-776022.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233727167653714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZY3Ok2eEv0RlPOoXp5QqxjtSDxMvoevxIE3WJpggoCTUvAoLMVH12TV7wZAbW_-wzBJmrLm2EKz53Lnf6jmGyGznNSwbscgWd9smuEVl4wxzpfvqya-rHdo7-iJU_fXMu-kcMqol9nU-/s320/jfjgfejb-776022.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3u8J_R4uJS1Zq6F86pWkktwE5hO6C6BaA2h3M51-JBZtiKniVHSQ5iQQlTldJRN3wuQWjPVhD25vwy38uUKNUCJcNzJqtrLnUGiIameCNWHxG9DIu70MkMl2lVsyFD169eHnD8DBETUbr/s1600/acddfhgf-778524.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233737196066066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3u8J_R4uJS1Zq6F86pWkktwE5hO6C6BaA2h3M51-JBZtiKniVHSQ5iQQlTldJRN3wuQWjPVhD25vwy38uUKNUCJcNzJqtrLnUGiIameCNWHxG9DIu70MkMl2lVsyFD169eHnD8DBETUbr/s320/acddfhgf-778524.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ehAA3ZFRJAJlMfReTqz8BiDWanjrBksUfDOaZFqTFaBoLN1nvjElXL5olAO97jNEdDboxmDURzAbOJ52a_XoBoaJ-4vpuPYiSRmtkFrVSup64R_jjiwls-b_v_jSuKFH6kYV7u1UADVk/s1600/eaahjhab-780030.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233743585101650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ehAA3ZFRJAJlMfReTqz8BiDWanjrBksUfDOaZFqTFaBoLN1nvjElXL5olAO97jNEdDboxmDURzAbOJ52a_XoBoaJ-4vpuPYiSRmtkFrVSup64R_jjiwls-b_v_jSuKFH6kYV7u1UADVk/s320/eaahjhab-780030.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjan7I74cP4XDDLWuFgYCqJdMHvTN6ijVglQVXohC8z6-TGJSTmDRzl5rUlllWaN8qKOh2lNHJ5NHgaO1eYXl-LDLjPS6moRo8x5aqc4ECt-UpAKv6caz-Nm2ZQbe5-6HDZpL3lgAfGoGTr/s1600/iiaiefja-782047.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233751536705474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjan7I74cP4XDDLWuFgYCqJdMHvTN6ijVglQVXohC8z6-TGJSTmDRzl5rUlllWaN8qKOh2lNHJ5NHgaO1eYXl-LDLjPS6moRo8x5aqc4ECt-UpAKv6caz-Nm2ZQbe5-6HDZpL3lgAfGoGTr/s320/iiaiefja-782047.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktj_IUl9ccycXX34O29H2nF8sh6mHxCkY_R4NMCdf3olnjzlW0unRZ_WRyXfE6abWsC8P_D8lOvrR6t5i2ZNCZn0uxIJdHngLx5osWGjac3oBvHqPsXFW0HKRQouGyMF9wji0EgYsoWg5/s1600/fdabcffa-783332.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233759895418002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktj_IUl9ccycXX34O29H2nF8sh6mHxCkY_R4NMCdf3olnjzlW0unRZ_WRyXfE6abWsC8P_D8lOvrR6t5i2ZNCZn0uxIJdHngLx5osWGjac3oBvHqPsXFW0HKRQouGyMF9wji0EgYsoWg5/s320/fdabcffa-783332.jpg" /></a></div>
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We were to see the procession again the next night - and it was pretty much the same. It must be hard carrying these very heavy floats (solid silver and timber) for about 4 hours of procession. respect. There are a number of floats - all statues of the virgin mary, and then jesus on the cross and laying down, that proceed very slowly from church to church. Philipe and I cornered ourselves in a Cajero Automatico (ATM) as we arrived a little late to the heaving crowds lining the streets. the procession was quite long and drawn out, but was great to see so many people there to experience it.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4UJbpyZ2o6i49_n7Gaj_e74WODmyqxJ7iHNwFJCFKPQvKknpyXTxsZ9luZ-ar_4kVKybMxRmVaHTt0F5zROO9wKkLAKArxQMNpBxeyHg73yEaRuVhYV_m8Ds1krEhrNsJ9CmZ-nxKHim/s1600/ifdeecgh-788332.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233779967849330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4UJbpyZ2o6i49_n7Gaj_e74WODmyqxJ7iHNwFJCFKPQvKknpyXTxsZ9luZ-ar_4kVKybMxRmVaHTt0F5zROO9wKkLAKArxQMNpBxeyHg73yEaRuVhYV_m8Ds1krEhrNsJ9CmZ-nxKHim/s320/ifdeecgh-788332.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">On the way up to the 2nd station of the cross</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XCBoZN5N0XgFxi5i8pNyMARi5fcr2ck2tMKOfnLlBL0Y4pjRBE0gHXiAsmjbdkgqs3OZBskItf5ZUgxFhtPpHUoNhnQS74_wJANZRRpR1vBWZ4FK9c6FlM1TAkdpBtvfuQ1_g3i66B6b/s1600/eghhecif-786787.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233770960877058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XCBoZN5N0XgFxi5i8pNyMARi5fcr2ck2tMKOfnLlBL0Y4pjRBE0gHXiAsmjbdkgqs3OZBskItf5ZUgxFhtPpHUoNhnQS74_wJANZRRpR1vBWZ4FK9c6FlM1TAkdpBtvfuQ1_g3i66B6b/s320/eghhecif-786787.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPnFdOiI0EXBvh2H-7xypNMs7UqKaxQRodjZiaBJmAnioTmwZFhlWozqQqp3Oldoy_zWNuckxLV2gh8CucXMxpAgGyXrg8OtcFBU2eDw-_qCwvbqUMYVZh0z0JQ26zLkRfgDrjjdK-mJy/s1600/effdhfic-790158.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233789293137954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPnFdOiI0EXBvh2H-7xypNMs7UqKaxQRodjZiaBJmAnioTmwZFhlWozqQqp3Oldoy_zWNuckxLV2gh8CucXMxpAgGyXrg8OtcFBU2eDw-_qCwvbqUMYVZh0z0JQ26zLkRfgDrjjdK-mJy/s320/effdhfic-790158.jpg" /></a></div>
the daytime though was a lot more active - thousands of people flock to Popayan every Semana Santa (the whole week is off for school children, and people work until Wednesday, then have Thurs/Fri off but are back to work Monday) and it really was a family event in Popayan. There was a sort of feria on the way up to the twelve stations of the cross, complete with taffy and bubbles. But on the way up, many groups of people reciting prayers, and many as a family. Perhaps this might be the only time they do this, but I still think a respectful way to understand the reason for the holiday. Much better than the excessive chocolate that we seem to have, even though I do think this is rather tasty:)<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55kG8R2R_W3YAEzRqa4Hl0d0V3JCSxmDlbYpAajGLomAy1sGl6hkMKgi6Rz7-oh8dh4X1_1hpca9x3DImKA0YN8BbthH9ciy2RCBgA1_uIZq6sgEdaqXaP0whky_J_GYeGf7mO8QNlj6j/s1600/djdchhei-785288.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729233766781609794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55kG8R2R_W3YAEzRqa4Hl0d0V3JCSxmDlbYpAajGLomAy1sGl6hkMKgi6Rz7-oh8dh4X1_1hpca9x3DImKA0YN8BbthH9ciy2RCBgA1_uIZq6sgEdaqXaP0whky_J_GYeGf7mO8QNlj6j/s320/djdchhei-785288.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The white finish of Popayan makes it a very genteel city</td></tr>
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Popayan is another beautiful colonial city (though it was all rebuilt due to an earthquake at the turn of the century). It's white also - like Arequipa, and quite grand, like Sucre, and polished - like Cuenca in Ecuador. Each country seems to have it's pretty city, and Popayan was one of these.<br />
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Yesterday though we left the white walls, and headed to see Wolf and Fabiola, a couple we had met biking in northern Chile. Wolf is German but lives here with Fabiola for most of the year in a town called Tulua. It's actually quite nice - very relaxed and completey off the tourist track. Today we moseyed around the town, completing the slow sunday walk in the central plazas where many men were talking and playing serious games of Chess. Nice pace.<br />
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On the way back to their house, I got to snack on yet one of my favourite empanandas so far - this time a thinner pastry, with almost a curry potato filling, and best thing - baked over hot coals. Delish. No pic though:( We ended the day with a drink at Fabiola's nephew's bar - a rather swish affair upstairs in town. Sort of white leather lounges, and high wooden stools. Very not south american somehow, but somehow it fit.<br />
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Tomorrow we're getting treated to a drive around the Zona Cafatera - the coffee plantations, and then Tues off to see a friend of theirs who actually runs a plantation! Very spoilt. Indeed, the people here are just so genuinely welcoming and friendly! There is also, I'm told and see lots of evidence of - a lot of plastic surgery. Lipo, breast and bum implants. Both the men and women are very beautiful, and it's also the most mixed colours, ethnic backgrounds (though no Asian or pure blonds) that we've seen here in South America.<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Popayán, Cauca, Colombia2.45 -76.61666672.1961745 -76.93252369999999 2.7038255 -76.3008097tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-37817652114309176002012-04-09T01:03:00.001+10:002012-04-09T01:05:26.038+10:00i share therefore i amprovoking talk by <a href="http://www.ted.com/talks/sherry_turkle_alone_together.html">Sherry Turkle on ted</a> about how we reach out for technology to deal with loneliness, of feeling alone and separated in the world. it's like we think, as long as we're connected (but not necessarily connecting), we're not alone. she also talks about how it appeals to us as we can <i>control</i> who we want to be online - we edit, delete, adjust so that it is just right as to how we want to be perceived.<br />
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i often think about this as I spend a fair amount of time on facebook - not necessarily 'sharing' but more nosing into the lives of friends to feel like I have some connection even though I've been away for so long. i can definitely say that somehow it's empty - you know, or have a little bit of a taster into what might be happening, but it sure doesn't beat an afternoon of chatting or sharing a bottle of wine:)<br />
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i hope that I managed to stay unsucked from expecting more from technology than I expect from myself or from others...<br />
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<a href="http://www.ted.com/talks/sherry_turkle_alone_together.html?utm_source=newsletter_weekly_2012-04-03&utm_campaign=newsletter_weekly&utm_medium=email">http://www.ted.com/talks/sherry_turkle_alone_together.html</a><br />
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</object>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Calle 29 # 22-2 a 22-100, Tuluá, Valle del Cauca, Colombia4.0833333 -76.23.8299207999999996 -76.515857 4.3367457999999992 -75.884143000000009tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-3634216036276628652012-04-06T01:54:00.000+10:002012-04-09T13:35:20.337+10:00final lush out in Ecuador - hummingbirds, butterflies, hiking<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2pIrJ91Na1ib7VQl87q5UaE26K9XDbPPmKeKH7Zyn5XmfmPKQph3sJRzIBn55wYjAZHDzB-LOH7yFHehvVPh6RqPQ9v2ic7N5QvtY5LR_g0QPTOE44AkLWeGrTjw8S-pnsg_tp32V03K/s1600/cceadadb-773210.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058911351993554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2pIrJ91Na1ib7VQl87q5UaE26K9XDbPPmKeKH7Zyn5XmfmPKQph3sJRzIBn55wYjAZHDzB-LOH7yFHehvVPh6RqPQ9v2ic7N5QvtY5LR_g0QPTOE44AkLWeGrTjw8S-pnsg_tp32V03K/s320/cceadadb-773210.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Philipe and I at Lago Quilotoa - Crater lake near Cotopaxi, Ecuador</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Beautiful hummingbird in Mindo</td></tr>
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ecuador has really been lusciously green and rolling. many of the rural landscapes look like farmlands in europe - neat fields, different tones of soil depending on what stage of furrowing they are at, little farmhouses dotted about. but that's not what i'll really talk about.<br />
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this morning after a rather long, drawn out border crossing last night (will write more on that below) we (that too i'll explain later) finally have made it into colombia! for most of the trip colombia has been the golden egg at the end - people always rave about how beautiful it is, how genuinely friendly and welcolming the people are, and so it's nice to be finally here. indeed it is somehow again, even more westernised and has the same high standard of living as was ecuador. it's also a lot more expensive - especially transport. Ecuador you can roughly calculate US$1 per hour of bus travel, but here in colombia we have just paid US$17 for a 5 hour trip.<br />
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but back to ecuador. the first thing is that, I'm back with Philipe. we're still working out how we work together, but we've each done separately and together lots of thinking and feeling about what is important to us both. And that's each other. You know, I'm usually so good at running away, and even though we've had a couple of those, we always find our way back together. I've never tried so hard, and likewise been rewarded with what I'm discovering. Many of you know about Chris - we spent 6 wonderful years together sharing our lives, me growing up (though perhaps not enough), exploring the world together. I have such wonderful memories of our time together, still laugh when I think of things we said or did together, and will always treasure these things that I shared with him. with Philipe it is a different relationship and we are also building many memories together, and I guess I feel very lucky to feel such love again. I have no idea how I will deal with being apart for the 2 or so months I am in Nepal and India, and no doubt I will just gloss over and be distracted by what I am doing and seeing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1ws7uHJJU-rZNr4LrCsQx2_CJBEvkREFRdxveUTiP5PAVos_kVHDNGA6LvgdeIUw2O6XI0_ZU5gEaj7NaIPZqEZoNUOG8Ooln5jrNL4xtRyKT5AQIcpuuH5Q5ec-J43C3ILLInwq-_A0/s1600/ddagjidf-764471.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058870009110546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1ws7uHJJU-rZNr4LrCsQx2_CJBEvkREFRdxveUTiP5PAVos_kVHDNGA6LvgdeIUw2O6XI0_ZU5gEaj7NaIPZqEZoNUOG8Ooln5jrNL4xtRyKT5AQIcpuuH5Q5ec-J43C3ILLInwq-_A0/s320/ddagjidf-764471.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Banos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf9B63j7KGl-Lkl9EjCp9WrO0x8x-uW5Isbobf4ASIoNn8wdt_Xb-Lyc5o-3Wbe_mTgVs0nS2gtiXpjAKrzCxvYrQle_kUkSCQgVxClkblvdjEmMjseY_d6ndd6kVlh-LpjPryd6GvuVd/s1600/fjeaggdh-767021.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058882433885058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf9B63j7KGl-Lkl9EjCp9WrO0x8x-uW5Isbobf4ASIoNn8wdt_Xb-Lyc5o-3Wbe_mTgVs0nS2gtiXpjAKrzCxvYrQle_kUkSCQgVxClkblvdjEmMjseY_d6ndd6kVlh-LpjPryd6GvuVd/s320/fjeaggdh-767021.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banos is situated in high jungle - so you get this beautiful misty clouds hovering over the town</td></tr>
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So back to the distractions! Philipe and I met after I went up to Chimborazo, which, according to the calculations of my father, the base camp at 4800m is actually 4KM higher than the TOP OF EVEREST! I surprised him in a hot and oppressive Guayaquil, and then we jumped on the bus the next day to the town of Banos. Banos is lush - very touristic, but set in a beautiful valley at the foot of a smoking volcano, with hot springs and waterfalls to relax in after a multitude of adventure sports. Was also complete with a rather curt and negative Norwegian lady who owned a rather nice coffee shop there, who we wonder has managed to maintain the cafe for so many years!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbhO3hce1Dh2jlCxOJ6pahoMcMYUNvFsZwpIeWMh53wProqvgv_LVFhKZCH71Nff3LYrU017xDdLa9FhAyztL3OEOQrY3Ch6Q0xDC7P9c5yWjrYyV7GuoW6MGVny4q9KHhySVoCuvsA5j/s1600/geabgcbf-769243.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058891167966466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbhO3hce1Dh2jlCxOJ6pahoMcMYUNvFsZwpIeWMh53wProqvgv_LVFhKZCH71Nff3LYrU017xDdLa9FhAyztL3OEOQrY3Ch6Q0xDC7P9c5yWjrYyV7GuoW6MGVny4q9KHhySVoCuvsA5j/s320/geabgcbf-769243.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfP7Xf1sGon6-Q5c6TRqKFTEyphk-qzaDkCd3K9JjuqvmhoBCp4dTy1U7Xp11EvtjLYnK4piXsHPh83feolgA-KvKzzHKH6INt6_GpnA0q6GBuVnjEpEFZ5PtW02-V01U9waL-oublLPV/s1600/fdfjfiea-770974.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058902472894386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfP7Xf1sGon6-Q5c6TRqKFTEyphk-qzaDkCd3K9JjuqvmhoBCp4dTy1U7Xp11EvtjLYnK4piXsHPh83feolgA-KvKzzHKH6INt6_GpnA0q6GBuVnjEpEFZ5PtW02-V01U9waL-oublLPV/s320/fdfjfiea-770974.jpg" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately though I got a cold, and that thwarted the canyoning and rafting that we had planned. With time running out, and me still with a hare brained idea that I wanted to climb Cotopaxi, a beautiful glacier topped crater volcano at 5800m, we headed up in to the mountains to start acclimitising and throwing off my cold. There is a beautiful series of walks near Cotopaxi around the town of Quilotoa, where there is a beautiful crater lake, and so we headed up there. I ended up not walking (after managing to lightly sprain my ankle running that morning), but were treated to a beautiful hostal called Mama Hilda where we decided to rest and recover from colds and long travel days for 2 nights. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View from Chugchillan in the Quilotoa Loop near Cotopaxi, Ecuador</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My potato sack aisle seat ride:)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyRhU1VQpIWTo3tp7RTxTVf7CWgUMQOxft982uDnBbpWW_1zURt_BLq0epALQNkuT_I7IhbLMNOYJtXrTwg787hJtSeWRGEOzepJM_ovFv8Zfp3m_lQaGKvFxwH3oQY0JDzzTKChSuu4n/s1600/ceeaffbc-776764.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058924333842098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyRhU1VQpIWTo3tp7RTxTVf7CWgUMQOxft982uDnBbpWW_1zURt_BLq0epALQNkuT_I7IhbLMNOYJtXrTwg787hJtSeWRGEOzepJM_ovFv8Zfp3m_lQaGKvFxwH3oQY0JDzzTKChSuu4n/s320/ceeaffbc-776764.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"God cannot physically be in all places at the same time, for this there are mothers"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQGQ0LvtQWpiUIrlCwClda_e3KB_WjHALbipqO-6EW1d2c3tva-BcfvT5oOHLdcTvMnUfPVtsdGb1NWyVfkWvjdNUnX63yFZ2PTpNKXUaJ09Nt3AxMj4bwgSAbQUq9myxmP6pULBG4qC6/s1600/dhhgiejg-780524.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058938123305874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQGQ0LvtQWpiUIrlCwClda_e3KB_WjHALbipqO-6EW1d2c3tva-BcfvT5oOHLdcTvMnUfPVtsdGb1NWyVfkWvjdNUnX63yFZ2PTpNKXUaJ09Nt3AxMj4bwgSAbQUq9myxmP6pULBG4qC6/s320/dhhgiejg-780524.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Separated rubbish!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A nice little town, beautiful hostal, a nice rest. But, as things go, I gave Philipe my cold, so after much deliberating and the serious bedrest that he needed after coming back down to the town we would have left for Cotopaxi, we decided not to climb. It's a real pity not to have done so, but with time running out, we decided to continue on instead of waiting to do the climb. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnrhgRF7PVGKb7w_5vhZWENnm5SSBGuU7msZrec90OjB-CvCIbHbFTZO50Hw-XLE0YftNHA1YFKgTI6fwzDeFkecj35GIZ-gf-DrLgCYBJ7dHaPn8MV5xwGMAB6uIdHt-dPFO0zww0Lap/s1600/bfjgfddc-787952.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058973096912738" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnrhgRF7PVGKb7w_5vhZWENnm5SSBGuU7msZrec90OjB-CvCIbHbFTZO50Hw-XLE0YftNHA1YFKgTI6fwzDeFkecj35GIZ-gf-DrLgCYBJ7dHaPn8MV5xwGMAB6uIdHt-dPFO0zww0Lap/s320/bfjgfddc-787952.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toucan:)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg54sC1fp0UgFKHj274foSCzGZ5x-B93XY_n377Dej43ApFumYE75_LeZsOndNKQZm3mcwIG2mPcVB3gfr7wNfF6P1J6ntreLhE5LpAD2TVPZ4UzchMsDHAq4DUanZbejoMpMd2ok0lM75W/s1600/cafffagc-789573.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058979201693346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg54sC1fp0UgFKHj274foSCzGZ5x-B93XY_n377Dej43ApFumYE75_LeZsOndNKQZm3mcwIG2mPcVB3gfr7wNfF6P1J6ntreLhE5LpAD2TVPZ4UzchMsDHAq4DUanZbejoMpMd2ok0lM75W/s320/cafffagc-789573.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb3Zq9A-mCV1toyiWRXfUCwtBICayb5Je0OGob-RJhgaok80Kz-rKRxjg9eW8M2UGo-ok4jDcUPy-LEmSgIxLeLbJ8t-lc5ef_8bELV-yYL3IYm6WK-dW8mHI-ffEdGf3IkwaUf_mXwzAx/s1600/ibdjffbe-791460.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058986538447746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb3Zq9A-mCV1toyiWRXfUCwtBICayb5Je0OGob-RJhgaok80Kz-rKRxjg9eW8M2UGo-ok4jDcUPy-LEmSgIxLeLbJ8t-lc5ef_8bELV-yYL3IYm6WK-dW8mHI-ffEdGf3IkwaUf_mXwzAx/s320/ibdjffbe-791460.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hummingbirds and butterflies galore!</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQk3Pt3g0eDNJZo3-JYxPAj931iNvJE6KWBwV_yynaVpJu4cL3tamaoVY1NJz_wZxwsylM0b7tlUPlVRH6lQnC9zQCgunlU7CwP3_F8UaZkI7edrhelZGixWMBs9aMGhjtvKfuunM8L2fO/s1600/higehjeg-781745.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058945406489202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQk3Pt3g0eDNJZo3-JYxPAj931iNvJE6KWBwV_yynaVpJu4cL3tamaoVY1NJz_wZxwsylM0b7tlUPlVRH6lQnC9zQCgunlU7CwP3_F8UaZkI7edrhelZGixWMBs9aMGhjtvKfuunM8L2fO/s320/higehjeg-781745.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Jt4fR6j0PsunIgL-05CObJhz6ctPrqvJU1Mv14zmoic-Z7zr37VB8kvvsoQlA0cW41_L5LBXeiDDyRk7cBeyVC68Vp4JLeRG-GBG2ww4n7oucBqLWU3rI6iSQLudS9pm1YsnyJoMpsnb/s1600/eafegebd-793215.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729058995868458978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Jt4fR6j0PsunIgL-05CObJhz6ctPrqvJU1Mv14zmoic-Z7zr37VB8kvvsoQlA0cW41_L5LBXeiDDyRk7cBeyVC68Vp4JLeRG-GBG2ww4n7oucBqLWU3rI6iSQLudS9pm1YsnyJoMpsnb/s320/eafegebd-793215.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuy18Vdq_oPV4XBoCjCD27Iuu9k-sRfyZrLE9xNSHdvuYDxbvB2SoxABUB94kF0J36aPvm8TFh0RkeIDLBTR9Fa8gbPuDlbUkg4u5o1NTwyfPiH26UCc4ISDqbMaVt2mpHilJjYmq58YNr/s1600/hbaiebjf-796051.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059008788285570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuy18Vdq_oPV4XBoCjCD27Iuu9k-sRfyZrLE9xNSHdvuYDxbvB2SoxABUB94kF0J36aPvm8TFh0RkeIDLBTR9Fa8gbPuDlbUkg4u5o1NTwyfPiH26UCc4ISDqbMaVt2mpHilJjYmq58YNr/s320/hbaiebjf-796051.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8BdqTEM-Nao1FBN2uWtr4Cvq21cTItpyquyy8bxUvnNFjjgDDSGBwwN7Sf6jZCCnyd2a5DJY5VeLPKs7fE9Vwdb8nhSeACDrorodcsl1OxBAYF0Y5rG9ZKaQNvHOKsjI4hV1XGrEb6jA/s1600/iffbjghh-797473.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059013516828034" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8BdqTEM-Nao1FBN2uWtr4Cvq21cTItpyquyy8bxUvnNFjjgDDSGBwwN7Sf6jZCCnyd2a5DJY5VeLPKs7fE9Vwdb8nhSeACDrorodcsl1OxBAYF0Y5rG9ZKaQNvHOKsjI4hV1XGrEb6jA/s320/iffbjghh-797473.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRR_abJ8i4TgqcU4UL6mWmnb0-jnTEuG45z4VATCDRSvfZKmdoSpHQczAqeGe9DxnjLHJx6J-YigujU7EUwrrmZtqu2IK2ruBonT1oo7xOTtfdi8veJHgrG4Yagv4g4TDwasfimXi7B7oG/s1600/iebiagff-799467.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059022462516738" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRR_abJ8i4TgqcU4UL6mWmnb0-jnTEuG45z4VATCDRSvfZKmdoSpHQczAqeGe9DxnjLHJx6J-YigujU7EUwrrmZtqu2IK2ruBonT1oo7xOTtfdi8veJHgrG4Yagv4g4TDwasfimXi7B7oG/s320/iebiagff-799467.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zH_rqYXlyA3xjnQNLQ9-FUhCd5_0rppl45PP_x7u2jQd39j_i9VDdeD1F-HDDWqddVIKRFvhhHhHitt2gwR8a2ceeDFQ1WL-zF8-1fMaI1874ZdKxFa0b3jXRwLxq3hfB1cvZOwFRky7/s1600/dddeehgd-700738.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059024087477218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zH_rqYXlyA3xjnQNLQ9-FUhCd5_0rppl45PP_x7u2jQd39j_i9VDdeD1F-HDDWqddVIKRFvhhHhHitt2gwR8a2ceeDFQ1WL-zF8-1fMaI1874ZdKxFa0b3jXRwLxq3hfB1cvZOwFRky7/s320/dddeehgd-700738.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43-5OAvPOB2e4X7qCRlAcGrXtCKevs4TV130Iah2SvqZa_Xt_BxEgc4kCJLdneMfm8MVDrnrDpHeHkCjpM6k-yjHfG3CmqLF2c5BRPfXagcqNfRGbo1lcCDssTn-g2_rJhA2Z1u90SMRV/s1600/bcegbbdj-703482.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059038076005426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43-5OAvPOB2e4X7qCRlAcGrXtCKevs4TV130Iah2SvqZa_Xt_BxEgc4kCJLdneMfm8MVDrnrDpHeHkCjpM6k-yjHfG3CmqLF2c5BRPfXagcqNfRGbo1lcCDssTn-g2_rJhA2Z1u90SMRV/s320/bcegbbdj-703482.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNESQ7rKB1WU217dSztChV8BuashyqbKZUSqeTA5Rg8p-L-VfHRecimiyQOCNNn12UMFnqIQ3cWpRdTIg0mLbdcc4V1LK4HmFGLWzRtTpiiU_NPAEtBswguZKn2x3LDwuC92cSt-fXSB1r/s1600/ebbeebjj-705299.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059046722990146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNESQ7rKB1WU217dSztChV8BuashyqbKZUSqeTA5Rg8p-L-VfHRecimiyQOCNNn12UMFnqIQ3cWpRdTIg0mLbdcc4V1LK4HmFGLWzRtTpiiU_NPAEtBswguZKn2x3LDwuC92cSt-fXSB1r/s320/ebbeebjj-705299.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6i5BltTZYXsLbYlOhAi_ie3lousPOFlGTOiGVl-1jEjqWTkIqWKxES8fiPckBDTpeoiqqRlrwEp0aB1DvyMWDRf0jwlGso5JtjIxCjuLVznfslScEwc9lS3G1B3GKB1J_-ZWbkOsDd9G7/s1600/dibeahia-707865.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059056106450914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6i5BltTZYXsLbYlOhAi_ie3lousPOFlGTOiGVl-1jEjqWTkIqWKxES8fiPckBDTpeoiqqRlrwEp0aB1DvyMWDRf0jwlGso5JtjIxCjuLVznfslScEwc9lS3G1B3GKB1J_-ZWbkOsDd9G7/s320/dibeahia-707865.jpg" /></a></div>
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Next stop was another beautiful town called Mindo. It's in cloud forest, about 2 hours from the capital of Ecuador, Quito. The big attraction for Mindo are the birdlife. Up to 20 types of hummingbirds, as well as parrots, and Toucans!! We spent a lush morning just watching the busy activities of the buzzing hummingbirds, and after breakfast then headed off to see some butterflies. I then raced off to do ziplining, and then to canyon down some waterfalls, before meeting Philipe at about 5pm for a much needed pick me up of homemade chocolate at a local restaurant. What a day... I certainly got my fill of everything after a couple of mishaps due to illness!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi21LKU-I8rZaMSBkVjF6ca9pTkeTZUErmeFDnkmWeAwWGmbDPQvUiDhbsQzCgi7shMHoN_8s4DiCGP7G1wjLRCk-IZBSm0Sp6hlnbxlorotpFsssK3a62DdZj_MDk5aiC_3ADBfsatJmj4/s1600/jjceebfg-710147.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059070303252050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi21LKU-I8rZaMSBkVjF6ca9pTkeTZUErmeFDnkmWeAwWGmbDPQvUiDhbsQzCgi7shMHoN_8s4DiCGP7G1wjLRCk-IZBSm0Sp6hlnbxlorotpFsssK3a62DdZj_MDk5aiC_3ADBfsatJmj4/s320/jjceebfg-710147.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz9nXK90GLXH67FLU_wnU3Zyrad_zLdj_3BtXXywMaUczBgxvLa-Y2EBWtv42JdpaCVccy2cI59DWx71-MQlJECY-4fTO7SjZNyOCHF7gMoQc9RXXYjklJFnV6B0eUS2KnVrRvrbwVf2w/s1600/icaeigag-712035.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729059076602791490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz9nXK90GLXH67FLU_wnU3Zyrad_zLdj_3BtXXywMaUczBgxvLa-Y2EBWtv42JdpaCVccy2cI59DWx71-MQlJECY-4fTO7SjZNyOCHF7gMoQc9RXXYjklJFnV6B0eUS2KnVrRvrbwVf2w/s320/icaeigag-712035.jpg" /></a></div>
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Yesterday we headed for the border. We thought we were super good and started early and arrived there at 2pm, but due to the fact that I had entered Ecuador at a small border crossing, I was NOT in their system, and this caused many problems. After 1.5 hours waiting in the immigration line for starters, then came the 2 hour wait and 1 hour resolving of the issue of the exit stamp. I got a bit stroppy when they asked for me to pay and get some photocopying done so that they could enter me in the immigration system as <i>being</i> in Ecuador. Especially when they had a machine inside the office. I mean I got really stroppy! What was funny was when I went off to get it done (I couldn't argue my way around that at the time, but came back with very bad quality copies in retaliation) apparantly the supervisor had been around, and asked the other guys - what are these young people still doing here? when they replied about the photocopies - he said - why haven't you just copied them here in the office? (what I had pointed out to them earlier). Hah! but they got it done, and didn't even ask me for a little 'tip' for all the hard work they had to do to process my exit stamp.<br />
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But the upside? We met Dickie and Bubba - mother and son traveling and working around south america for the last 5 years who had shared my grief with the entry stamp. just such a great energy with them, and we spent the night in the border town together, then travelled to Popayan too the following day (complete with 4 hour breakdown) for the Easter processions.<br />
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And... I'm finally in my last stop... Colombia:)<br />
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<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Ipiales, Narino, Colombia0.821762 -77.6416780.313704 -78.273392 1.32982 -77.009964tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-2726466378665606062012-03-30T01:16:00.001+10:002012-03-30T01:33:17.677+10:00when i grow up, i want to be an old mansome of you may have heard me say this, but when i grow up and older, Ithink I want to be an old man. I was reminded today when I was at the hot spring baths here in the aptly named Banos in Ecuador. Half immersed in a concoction of naturally occurring mineral hot waters, trying to stall an oncoming cold, i look around, and see groups of men from their 60s to 80s, stand around, chatting, lightly arguing and sharing news of the happenings around town. they are laughing, kidding around a bit, making jokes about each other and the fact that this pool seems to be the old man pool (i contest this, and they just say little girl, we're in here sharing it with you so we can get a little younger), i guess lightly flirting in a way that is sort of just endearing (does this sound odd?!) and having a good time.<br />
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I've seen this a lot here - they seem to mostly congregate around coffee shops and bars, sipping their caffecitos, donned in those caps just talking about everything and anything. I am reminded fondly to my german grandfather, he loved taking every opportunity to have coffee and cake sittings at the local shopping centres, galleries and parks and he also used to kid around a bit, saying silly words and just being loveable .<br />
in my mind, groups of older women seem to be more inside, and seem to talk and complain more about their ailments and how dangerous everything is. (well here anyway) I remember observing a cafe in Buenos Aires an at the time the person I was discussing this with pointed out something interesting:<br />
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men have traditionally spent most of their working life outside the home and usually with other men. whereas women have been in the home more taking care of the household and children. so it makes sense that in<br />
retirement the men continue to socialise with other men outside the home, and thus I seem to see them out in their new workplaces, the cafes, hot springs, park benches and other more social areas. but to me it's also in the way they talk. it's the lighter conversation, the animation, the jokes. I really like this.<br />
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and that's why when I grow up, i want to be an old man.FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Banos, Ecuador-1.3958122316124644 -78.42315673828125-1.4593087316124644 -78.502120738281249 -1.3323157316124643 -78.344192738281251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-65721011051195831902012-03-27T02:47:00.000+10:002012-03-27T06:16:48.202+10:00No bote basuraEcuador is the first country in south america that i've travelled in that seems to habe a conscience about rubbish.<br />
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You see signs in buses saying it's prohibited to throw rubbish out the window, and on the carts of my favourite salchipapa streetvendors, not to throw into the steeet.<br />
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It's definitely cleaner here, well in yhe cities at least.<br />
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ps. what you think? my first post from my iphone... i'm thinking of ditching my computer for Nepal, so this may be my new blogging tool</div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com1Loja, Guayaquil, Ecuador-2.1833333 -79.8833333-2.4372073000000003 -80.1991903 -1.9294593000000002 -79.56747630000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-40375036832154683032012-03-26T08:23:00.000+10:002012-03-27T06:15:20.402+10:00tick for sunday: highest mountain on earth<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgM50JeCE3QZTJ-pfHh3NwTGW35XvhRwocCnGikhWfKCUrOFuUluemDR53kI3DsETrd2X-srhMsQfQsh7IMgIpp0Fjkc-SOPUoQjLiP3iCXqbFsI9V8k1y0-v8Ae2V3HrzitE1KaOkEYdm/s1600/dijaiaif-713250.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298975403308706" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgM50JeCE3QZTJ-pfHh3NwTGW35XvhRwocCnGikhWfKCUrOFuUluemDR53kI3DsETrd2X-srhMsQfQsh7IMgIpp0Fjkc-SOPUoQjLiP3iCXqbFsI9V8k1y0-v8Ae2V3HrzitE1KaOkEYdm/s320/dijaiaif-713250.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Chimborazo:)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Mount Chimborazo - 6310m high, is, because of it's location to the ecuator.. the highest mountain in the world! Well I guess you'd be the furtherest point from the centre of the earth when you are on top of that sucker.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfoN9Qg3nXPsH2RExCO2D7Y1zIysa8m6CGhhjlYhafmqet2yR79SD-OgA0E0H9C8EHwSWsoXVLhEOC7CenJPHHG6zdvSY2FNDzMMHNTMDB_APC8mS-4O_9vsZNOQgUckzEcFEbonkcw1a/s1600/jbdjcabi-714896.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298979329447298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfoN9Qg3nXPsH2RExCO2D7Y1zIysa8m6CGhhjlYhafmqet2yR79SD-OgA0E0H9C8EHwSWsoXVLhEOC7CenJPHHG6zdvSY2FNDzMMHNTMDB_APC8mS-4O_9vsZNOQgUckzEcFEbonkcw1a/s320/jbdjcabi-714896.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlld1iRDAtcEaTXL_5kqSWun3YFbfOnMZUxkVgPV-NGnLSp4npfMOUiAGWDi2Bsj74cEiJaOzL9rSWd-KQp2Y48WsDnwIhozbdSJNUrJUCDYDRjjRZJ5Xwf8Jwok1Cq6fkXZxYQI8eIDqp/s1600/cbjbffbc-716213.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298980795332290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlld1iRDAtcEaTXL_5kqSWun3YFbfOnMZUxkVgPV-NGnLSp4npfMOUiAGWDi2Bsj74cEiJaOzL9rSWd-KQp2Y48WsDnwIhozbdSJNUrJUCDYDRjjRZJ5Xwf8Jwok1Cq6fkXZxYQI8eIDqp/s320/cbjbffbc-716213.jpg" /></a></div>
before you wonder, no I didn't climb it, but I did have a wander up the beginning slopes. It amazes me, that I wake up in a biggish town, and 1 hour later we are slipping our way up a fresh snow laid road up to the base camp. the vista has opened up, there's vicuna's daintily on alert to the car noise, and sitting majestically in front, is Chimborazo.<br />
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to summit, it's about a 9 hour climb, and I got a free lift there as a couchsurfer I had contacted runs an agency and was picking up some other mountaineers. we met them on their way down - they didn't quite summit due to a storm, but were pretty elated at having got so close.<br />
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we started up the snowy path, and although Sabrina (a Danish girl I had met last night) started feeling really sick, after taking her back down I got up to the other refugio and caught up with Marcos, a German guy who we had given a lift to on the way up. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAh9FOLQpILCUku-6w3J-E39cEHAyJfXthxPAYSv0F02bthBLtwO9QZyCxkQFxT0FeOue9ulFARZJggFtiTnc_KEDZuG2Vi1Ru-aMrCBphmwuc7BACAGlWQKXW-9zP4Z-mzrKafvEBqypL/s1600/dfeegidf-717452.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298987213941282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAh9FOLQpILCUku-6w3J-E39cEHAyJfXthxPAYSv0F02bthBLtwO9QZyCxkQFxT0FeOue9ulFARZJggFtiTnc_KEDZuG2Vi1Ru-aMrCBphmwuc7BACAGlWQKXW-9zP4Z-mzrKafvEBqypL/s320/dfeegidf-717452.jpg" /></a></div>
quick sidetrack - what was also crazy was the cyclists!! that were riding up the snowy road too! Later I was to see why...<br />
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Marcos and I ate lunch, chatted with the Refugio guard, did some pics and then, I walked a bit further up, had a play around in the snow, and then because it started snowing, decided to start my way back down. then... woah!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32T2nuI7rHJ2wm-pTsZ9O4alsuOLUEUf3tr918bO4rtaZSLORIePa2uEMRGQhgDjIeBVOJU6Ooiyk2BuOoFBWh4h1lDJ1P8WNPeNuB9uAYRRiDbrUjNpIAU1TCOshNNNLJ4uJStWKI-UI/s1600/djbdjgdi-718137.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298992778322690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32T2nuI7rHJ2wm-pTsZ9O4alsuOLUEUf3tr918bO4rtaZSLORIePa2uEMRGQhgDjIeBVOJU6Ooiyk2BuOoFBWh4h1lDJ1P8WNPeNuB9uAYRRiDbrUjNpIAU1TCOshNNNLJ4uJStWKI-UI/s320/djbdjgdi-718137.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Qk0PHjRnnsXaFYllHDjosCbDpxBUzYqKsY_humTT2ZiyNnqMp_X8EmFmiLJjb_8UazGbD-XLwPyFWzYz2SBx-Xm80v_jkeMDMpSGWNax68L0RTc5PiLXRqy4mySRH0wG-Lnughuxb0n8/s1600/ihhjjjgc-719100.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298994915983042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Qk0PHjRnnsXaFYllHDjosCbDpxBUzYqKsY_humTT2ZiyNnqMp_X8EmFmiLJjb_8UazGbD-XLwPyFWzYz2SBx-Xm80v_jkeMDMpSGWNax68L0RTc5PiLXRqy4mySRH0wG-Lnughuxb0n8/s320/ihhjjjgc-719100.jpg" /></a></div>
I encountered about 40 people from various tour groups - totally inequipped with tiny water bottles, converse shoes, huffing their way up on the promise of a hot chocolate at the next refugio. You can drive up to 4800m to the first refugio, and then 200m more up to 5000m at the Whymper Refugio which is where they were heading. the path had gone from compact snow to gravel and slush, and the clouds and fog had rolled in. I was sad they had missed the glorious blue sunny hot morning but wished them luck. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeiKPI-f8A4PgCQD6ai9SQ5flTkUGf_gAHrTjUc-MR9hAkiukv34FprFdA4-bu2mLEb09wVj2x2gALc23sF5dr6b5E9FdzqaVZeGHkEiF7HMIAUo_hwloCQg8fQ-rEPVzRZPXPkSvG6O8/s1600/fibbcccc-719739.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724298996707387810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeiKPI-f8A4PgCQD6ai9SQ5flTkUGf_gAHrTjUc-MR9hAkiukv34FprFdA4-bu2mLEb09wVj2x2gALc23sF5dr6b5E9FdzqaVZeGHkEiF7HMIAUo_hwloCQg8fQ-rEPVzRZPXPkSvG6O8/s320/fibbcccc-719739.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJECG-aTpgqWbNl28vWMO5Fb5XLzWF-hDmlzem1E_oivC-6Algbzoy_LDBEDvpfwfJaLqGyg7dy8c_TRr3uaLDGTtxwjyUsqiYahh77zD18tL-eofrxJem8leAx0-1MKYsrOpzQACnBgya/s1600/chgihcjj-721076.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299004153408018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJECG-aTpgqWbNl28vWMO5Fb5XLzWF-hDmlzem1E_oivC-6Algbzoy_LDBEDvpfwfJaLqGyg7dy8c_TRr3uaLDGTtxwjyUsqiYahh77zD18tL-eofrxJem8leAx0-1MKYsrOpzQACnBgya/s320/chgihcjj-721076.jpg" /></a></div>
I guess the proximity and ease of access makes for a popular day trip from Riobamba, and it continually amazes me that people here are just up for anything and don't fuss about all the 'gear' that we love to fuss about, and usually, make it up steadily.<br />
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It was a quick walk back down tot eh other refugio, and then I started the 8km walk back to the main highway. I was enjoying it, but the snow got heavier, and so was kindly picked up by a Hondurus family that lives in Riobamba. We had a really nice time chatting on the way down, and then they invited me to a tasty, but cardiac arrest lunch back in town. They are really enjoying living here - they feel so safe, can walk around the streets at night, and the kids aren't at risk of getting roped into gang/guerrilla warfare. i'm not sure how much I like it here, but i guess in comparison, when family safety is at risk, it's a good move.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZgtE2DR_1aP-UlQHMZH5HLwZcK7fv7Ddqshg3X_c9dkOV_tBBpBAfDh_D3IxbeH2pbhIvnHXyC8fj3Ot61wBbVh2Pw4sfqvVPZaqHcixRQb4R-5DkuJ2ifoX_ref8YLTkhyc52QEonm5/s1600/cgiffbgb-722085.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299008428153602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZgtE2DR_1aP-UlQHMZH5HLwZcK7fv7Ddqshg3X_c9dkOV_tBBpBAfDh_D3IxbeH2pbhIvnHXyC8fj3Ot61wBbVh2Pw4sfqvVPZaqHcixRQb4R-5DkuJ2ifoX_ref8YLTkhyc52QEonm5/s320/cgiffbgb-722085.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mini heart attach lunch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is: fried potato, fried egg, fried chorizo sausage, sauce, with avocado and beetrot to balance it out...<br />
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it's now 5pm, i've watched 2 episodes of meerkat manor on the cable tv in my hotel ($6 for private room with cable:) but shared bathroom and Marcos thinks he got bed bugs from the opposite room), taken a turn around the very very quiet town (it's a sunday) and there's some thunder cracking above the loudspeaker and horns blaring.<br />
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pretty good for 1 day I think! especially that I got to do something pretty special like play around at the feet of the highest mountain on earth:)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRF4-1avoStflttBNthhu0qtyyJI7-RN-jfYadHVwhE1ONYrdEF9XvswPNVgg1iVcBhLIE9fOt7TGVsLc5oSQvzXGkGCP-1qDGJb1GJLkk2Z7O0VJqrLUDQpv9hZwiGwZM-b23k9FupKU5/s1600/igiaeiha-724837.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299018111093618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRF4-1avoStflttBNthhu0qtyyJI7-RN-jfYadHVwhE1ONYrdEF9XvswPNVgg1iVcBhLIE9fOt7TGVsLc5oSQvzXGkGCP-1qDGJb1GJLkk2Z7O0VJqrLUDQpv9hZwiGwZM-b23k9FupKU5/s320/igiaeiha-724837.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com1Chimborazo, Ecuador-1.4691666 -78.8175-1.5326606 -78.896464 -1.4056726000000002 -78.738536tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-83965572254071763212012-03-24T09:00:00.000+10:002012-03-27T06:11:36.452+10:00Spoilt in Cuenca and CajasSpoilt in the sense of a beautiful, genteel city, with yummy ice cream and chocolate shops, nice restaurants and bars. Spoilt with the natural beauty of the Cajas National Park with it's myriad of lakes and muddy walking paths. But spoilt especially by two people there: David and Luis.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8sQ-nDG5I0ygvUeQJVzhEGQOOiqda3uhypCdLp9omutmNCQcBTnXlbEGq6O2eBOzLRaJ8DbWoX9nkyB5SGza7fwTSmqJ4P0cF-OGLQY79r-tju0hzUpPu6JvUR8W4rpaGWH9ohQhi8Ts/s1600/hdbfjggi-735300.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299491329027106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8sQ-nDG5I0ygvUeQJVzhEGQOOiqda3uhypCdLp9omutmNCQcBTnXlbEGq6O2eBOzLRaJ8DbWoX9nkyB5SGza7fwTSmqJ4P0cF-OGLQY79r-tju0hzUpPu6JvUR8W4rpaGWH9ohQhi8Ts/s320/hdbfjggi-735300.jpg" /></a><br />
I met David last month in Arica; he was riding with his friends Wolf and Fabiola northwards back to their homes in Cuenca and Tulua in Colombia respectively. David moved to Cuenca about 6 years ago after living in Mexico for a while. He's really created his own slice of heaven I think here now! We had fantastic conversations - much about something called the Enneagram (which I'm going to write about soon), about life, about politics, about food, about everything. He also spoilt me in his beautiful home - with a feather duvet/doona:), the perfect dinner of cheese, crackers and wine topped with lively conversation with one of his friends, Sumana, a care package when I left, and just plain open armed welcome-ness into his home and life. When you travel so long, these takes of a home are a treat - and sometimes make you want to pack your bags and find a flight out of there!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2-FbMMWgC6wg_AJr6E7sDbpojE_qpsuzVWNAfqfMA8IQdIydak8qdpcfWQczmRLVI73sLHuPfZKGWif0ntHoZMctIlPuy8HA4c08UbJp230TfMzsM3QujQgC30MZXbvJ6LtL8_JbxACa/s1600/icjiehjj-736752.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299497673763762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2-FbMMWgC6wg_AJr6E7sDbpojE_qpsuzVWNAfqfMA8IQdIydak8qdpcfWQczmRLVI73sLHuPfZKGWif0ntHoZMctIlPuy8HA4c08UbJp230TfMzsM3QujQgC30MZXbvJ6LtL8_JbxACa/s320/icjiehjj-736752.jpg" /></a><br />
Luis was the security guard at the refugio at Cajas National Park. They work 2 days on, 2 days off, and if there is no-one staying at the refugio, are the only ones there from about 5pm to 8am. After getting lost and trying to create my own path along a cliff face, I returned to the refugio just a tad wet and hungry - and was treated to a crackling fire and a smiling Luis to welcome me back. While my socks and shoes dried, Luis turned up with some crackers and cheese his sister had made, and then we proceeded to talk about everything and anything! His life (he's got around;), politics (again - this morning too - another chat about the current president, Correa who everyone respects and likes - he's got at least a 85% support rating), traveling, women - all of it! Then he prepared some tasty little potatoes called Melloros which are quite starchy, but very tasty to accompany the broccoli I had brought with me. After heading back to a cold refugio - this was about 3970m in altitude, he made me move up to next to his room, so I could get some onflow of heating, and then tucked me in! I was woken up with hot tea, and we sat and chatted in the morning sun until his replacement came and he left.<br />
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2 wonderful experiences in 2 beautiful places.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnsyAJblu155r7lRD303vvy6iIxzJypxjj365Ssuqu6Taii1tSTuIwQHcet45D0ACeF5eTOs1lgRpUsyEwjT9FH_imELnsvj5reNZe8d0_R6Wu4TB7aDQGNbG5KPjBIhwd5fb7cC3tUVt/s1600/feeicbca-738686.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299507691437442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnsyAJblu155r7lRD303vvy6iIxzJypxjj365Ssuqu6Taii1tSTuIwQHcet45D0ACeF5eTOs1lgRpUsyEwjT9FH_imELnsvj5reNZe8d0_R6Wu4TB7aDQGNbG5KPjBIhwd5fb7cC3tUVt/s320/feeicbca-738686.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtL5am5mII-DwSL6yFBJ0c8IBzk4qTNDwEABTFI3JnleZs7LmHJE70m9VRfZJVfvOs56WYULpoL2AjJj3HIUT_Zt0scxNTrWtPD_19Qf89O317RMZqEzpHc4ggToJSy1BwEFzIFlhVdiJ/s1600/ehbfbegb-740127.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299515876968994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtL5am5mII-DwSL6yFBJ0c8IBzk4qTNDwEABTFI3JnleZs7LmHJE70m9VRfZJVfvOs56WYULpoL2AjJj3HIUT_Zt0scxNTrWtPD_19Qf89O317RMZqEzpHc4ggToJSy1BwEFzIFlhVdiJ/s320/ehbfbegb-740127.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJ1TGCwrUa7fjIzK2SVaYmdBMksn9u3c7NJkBTBMtIyQlzLDslYamCKg856ZqMTOWhrwmlWYevJCpr4xdovWfKKZ9LWTLkRcqbhVgVfsBUPcqR4yMaKwYYdBnqHL5RNApsdVExD9pGf_Z/s1600/gdejibie-741833.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724299518964305858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJ1TGCwrUa7fjIzK2SVaYmdBMksn9u3c7NJkBTBMtIyQlzLDslYamCKg856ZqMTOWhrwmlWYevJCpr4xdovWfKKZ9LWTLkRcqbhVgVfsBUPcqR4yMaKwYYdBnqHL5RNApsdVExD9pGf_Z/s320/gdejibie-741833.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Cuenca, Ecuador-2.896617 -79.007621-2.9600505 -79.086585 -2.8331835 -78.928657tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-87758726588026278602012-03-22T01:32:00.001+10:002012-03-27T06:12:22.944+10:00first impressions of Ecuador<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipoXpXjvtgyANcCG7D-i15J2VVZHNF3OxJw4yg0PbJMZ1NZhKKmkgrERlvvnbIRCAcUWX7GigBsTY2CyrtuafyKHiNNDmG2QSRWei5aPrbkDXX5foxk-9qedRdDyjptu6-9qvorRU0Swo8/s1600/aiegaefj-744683.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373672236680962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipoXpXjvtgyANcCG7D-i15J2VVZHNF3OxJw4yg0PbJMZ1NZhKKmkgrERlvvnbIRCAcUWX7GigBsTY2CyrtuafyKHiNNDmG2QSRWei5aPrbkDXX5foxk-9qedRdDyjptu6-9qvorRU0Swo8/s320/aiegaefj-744683.jpg" /></a><br />
So these might be a little biased as I've only been to Vilcabamba (think where half the American hippies have relocated to) and Cuenca (a beautiful, colonial city also filled with many expats), but so far this is what's passed through my mind<br />
<ul>
<li>it's super green here. instead of the extremes of Peru, i now am enjoying softer rolling, lush green valleys that seem to go on and on past gushing brown rivers (from the rain), pastoral lands and in and out of the low lying cloud</li>
<li>people look different - their faces are perhaps rounder, but more beautiful. the women also have very long flowing hair - and many that i've seen wear it loose instead of braided as I saw more in Peru</li>
<li>it is so westernised! very easy living as such. in Vilcabamba, you can even buy VEGAN food :)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzIQkP-eMI2INv33gsSkoFCGB2c1tncGCS7odmdt7uxEguCS_CQc-33zEnugSokXPrqJbMDeGVSnQPwzUvVZEFhSfrXI9Fs2DEYAJntpt1uYbORSogW8Xopsca00fQaXu-ft-n2fPCiot/s1600/efcebedg-746874.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373675345170274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzIQkP-eMI2INv33gsSkoFCGB2c1tncGCS7odmdt7uxEguCS_CQc-33zEnugSokXPrqJbMDeGVSnQPwzUvVZEFhSfrXI9Fs2DEYAJntpt1uYbORSogW8Xopsca00fQaXu-ft-n2fPCiot/s320/efcebedg-746874.jpg" /></a></li>
<li>it's super clean (well Cuenca is), because...</li>
<li>they collect garbage 3 times a week in Cuenca - rubbish AND recyclables</li>
<li>there are also signs NOT to throw rubbish - including from the bus where they have plastic bags to collect said rubbish!</li>
<li>yes. Rubbish is a big thing for me as you can tell.</li>
<li>there's a running path next to the river?! in Cuenca. what the?</li>
<li>and people are exercising!</li>
<li>there's ice cream shops all over town in Cuenca, including chocolate shops, restaurants of all kinds, heaps of biscuit shops and german bakeries. bad bad news for susan.</li>
<li>the central market in Cuenca has ESCALATORS! again, what the?</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDO8VPT7Y0exY4g3hizL_mmYkyrV7Fcm0H7N99a35aA6sX9y9yMgmy_sBQj1occfEqEqhk33_FdvZ-LRC0qVrmgpdttSzzt97mIxUCB7B98-wp-27pBrYQdt2B-N_JtUOCg8oboTNvFyo/s1600/haihhfhc-748171.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373683736179858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDO8VPT7Y0exY4g3hizL_mmYkyrV7Fcm0H7N99a35aA6sX9y9yMgmy_sBQj1occfEqEqhk33_FdvZ-LRC0qVrmgpdttSzzt97mIxUCB7B98-wp-27pBrYQdt2B-N_JtUOCg8oboTNvFyo/s320/haihhfhc-748171.jpg" /></a><br />
<ul>
<li>they use the US dollar. <br /> </li>
<li>it's about 30-50% more expensive than Peru</li>
<li>there are lot of foreign brands - especially in Chocolate:) LIke Ferrero!</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFn8NVFSWr4yxKphz2WjXTX4ET4GQdwO-uy4JYOd-UJUAWbxGJPIOB2wyp2HsQauQAppSQDhmJnpN4Y7iB2RqbCQGoDQLt36VaBKRnAM6F9dRbba3rnhKSUIg23hnaYlzi3a2Dv6Ss24N3/s1600/bbieeacg-749149.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373692136793026" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFn8NVFSWr4yxKphz2WjXTX4ET4GQdwO-uy4JYOd-UJUAWbxGJPIOB2wyp2HsQauQAppSQDhmJnpN4Y7iB2RqbCQGoDQLt36VaBKRnAM6F9dRbba3rnhKSUIg23hnaYlzi3a2Dv6Ss24N3/s320/bbieeacg-749149.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwJvCe70qAGGSYpJld6Whe541Y8thHZLySCV0VVQINaFhEOXLo8VHs2dfhh3zd7fslyIaO-nFhI0mFRse_vc5XYsxD7aEjnh2WYpCGnX3zG3aPJLl-SoH7uk2P5ZKZGaMoXyXb5jqB6WH/s1600/fehaiiad-750424.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373694775624978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwJvCe70qAGGSYpJld6Whe541Y8thHZLySCV0VVQINaFhEOXLo8VHs2dfhh3zd7fslyIaO-nFhI0mFRse_vc5XYsxD7aEjnh2WYpCGnX3zG3aPJLl-SoH7uk2P5ZKZGaMoXyXb5jqB6WH/s320/fehaiiad-750424.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhli3L33BuAB_Oz0zdg5Tr_xoe4WDoWylix2ueNqkbm5uGsoCDxC280d8uWLyUYhPtc0yl4tMOKbE57kuiFPab4-rTBp5TFb3A69bUslB3ILG8sG6nnzh4rd5SQnk_22Nuk5dkArV5txupo/s1600/fjcabhhj-751952.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373703052079810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhli3L33BuAB_Oz0zdg5Tr_xoe4WDoWylix2ueNqkbm5uGsoCDxC280d8uWLyUYhPtc0yl4tMOKbE57kuiFPab4-rTBp5TFb3A69bUslB3ILG8sG6nnzh4rd5SQnk_22Nuk5dkArV5txupo/s320/fjcabhhj-751952.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9Isl-LBwLD4lPFWMSrEDhsHW8WCVohZ2-3NXD1qsn9T4-Mmu5amBMR6f_N_kkU1j2gi2_vZqgiVjOxoUw5FV8Wy8UR9Qkhgb8yvaWmLC-Sapd5OB469YlemaHflOCeVCar9v7Kubrui6/s1600/cdhgjejj-753659.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5722373706091292946" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9Isl-LBwLD4lPFWMSrEDhsHW8WCVohZ2-3NXD1qsn9T4-Mmu5amBMR6f_N_kkU1j2gi2_vZqgiVjOxoUw5FV8Wy8UR9Qkhgb8yvaWmLC-Sapd5OB469YlemaHflOCeVCar9v7Kubrui6/s320/cdhgjejj-753659.jpg" /></a><br />
<br /> <br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Cuenca, Ecuador-2.896617 -79.007621-2.9600505 -79.086585 -2.8331835 -78.928657tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-64519861746147413892012-03-18T11:00:00.000+10:002012-03-18T23:07:12.699+10:00pre-inca ruins,, waterfalls and a jungle border crossinghow to start with the last week? there's been a couple more hikes, 2 night buses plus 3 days of day travel (so in total about 36 hours of bus travel), a fair few hours spent bumping my way along muddy roads in rickety cars, and days at a stretch without a shower, but at the same time I was rewarded with great conversations, visits to 3 pre-inca ruins, a variety of landscapes from tall mountains to the dry dusty desert to the muddy lusciously green jungle, the worlds third tallest waterfall, colonial tinged amazonas towns and finally, a border crossing to Ecuador.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_f34YVDJxf1QlIJrdVDFdO6kzG-YxoiVyKtuMBx24B2C367eME3agyV0G03UuzuPEq0WZH5-Aflzt1GqZoFQv3IF0yU_QQ_e9uKbPIbu2a4FJtE10xKW6KC4abfriB7ZHfDcYMM6ZCu4/s1600/acbabgge-755881.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220523024707474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_f34YVDJxf1QlIJrdVDFdO6kzG-YxoiVyKtuMBx24B2C367eME3agyV0G03UuzuPEq0WZH5-Aflzt1GqZoFQv3IF0yU_QQ_e9uKbPIbu2a4FJtE10xKW6KC4abfriB7ZHfDcYMM6ZCu4/s320/acbabgge-755881.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice change of altitude - 600m now</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlbuAn8ucltDAd-hojXPbtoglof_784LA99-fC8wMGArnwsQVAOrwwssaRldA9vmuVz1u-uYROIXnZyc7GAUXfMwJZSn-8sKrKXeSFiYhQFc4e_HkoX-ojBbl92znFZDK5hdyVY_MWjGj/s1600/ihfcecej-757451.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220525057291458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlbuAn8ucltDAd-hojXPbtoglof_784LA99-fC8wMGArnwsQVAOrwwssaRldA9vmuVz1u-uYROIXnZyc7GAUXfMwJZSn-8sKrKXeSFiYhQFc4e_HkoX-ojBbl92znFZDK5hdyVY_MWjGj/s320/ihfcecej-757451.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'ranchero' bus truck to take me through the jungle. Sort of theme park no?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzkKRtJ-kUIUWm3du1Vg3jw3gAWw5tB6gx0VBkimeAjJiDqQq7QOfxV37nLitJpZrkixgkGbraVBIpPxJdU2sbcGXKgVXejZPNSIuHRs4amTVWIU4yMDONWsN_xGTq9zk9-Jn-Hq1I2ybb/s1600/fabddhie-759379.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220534051997058" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzkKRtJ-kUIUWm3du1Vg3jw3gAWw5tB6gx0VBkimeAjJiDqQq7QOfxV37nLitJpZrkixgkGbraVBIpPxJdU2sbcGXKgVXejZPNSIuHRs4amTVWIU4yMDONWsN_xGTq9zk9-Jn-Hq1I2ybb/s320/fabddhie-759379.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bye bye Peru - their side of the crossing</td></tr>
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I am now sitting out of the mud and with the bugs under a tin roof next to a gurgling river. I'll be here 3 hours waiting for a bus. Welcome to the border crossing, Las Balsas - Zumbo from Peru - Ecuador. I left the nearest town, San Ignacio around 6am, and 1.5 hours later I arrived to have a relaxing breakfast with the immigration officer in Las Balzas. It's now 9.30am, and I'm waiting for the 'Ranchero', a sort of truck with bench seats with a canopy where the flat back is, to take me 1.5 hours to the closest Ecuadorian town. From there it will be another 6 hours to Vilcabamba where I will meet our couchsurfing host from New Orleans who is traveling there too. Amazing how you can, for the most part, relax and let so many hours pass (and update one's blog!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ybjwwEZ9_DamZjMOz_-0bSplFUu3I578gmABu__CYNl38RrWofJutXwqP6Pmg3wmLcy4J9z43EEJzJ2JW6scoQTMHFiuFU4bsbnFuZ92ewA96D82OIxEtsn0YrrBdugd6z_V2tvMq3DH/s1600/dgjhfdjd-760208.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220539971365890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ybjwwEZ9_DamZjMOz_-0bSplFUu3I578gmABu__CYNl38RrWofJutXwqP6Pmg3wmLcy4J9z43EEJzJ2JW6scoQTMHFiuFU4bsbnFuZ92ewA96D82OIxEtsn0YrrBdugd6z_V2tvMq3DH/s320/dgjhfdjd-760208.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dirt roads wind their way precariously alongside rivers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHlFWfliQIKh3MJmh9IMw3QQRqNinPIIw5nUWcpMY2U9PabzQQP1VxGRg7IQCA2j-8LVTaQhFTJpU5gAtyjdeNYJzFvs6ffkh2QG5cHQ2sn9994xHvyEY2Pvr2wJ-ntGbSG38b9l9Rp6L/s1600/ejiihgia-763087.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220552911283858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHlFWfliQIKh3MJmh9IMw3QQRqNinPIIw5nUWcpMY2U9PabzQQP1VxGRg7IQCA2j-8LVTaQhFTJpU5gAtyjdeNYJzFvs6ffkh2QG5cHQ2sn9994xHvyEY2Pvr2wJ-ntGbSG38b9l9Rp6L/s320/ejiihgia-763087.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sometimes getting lost in the process</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVIPGuCmJWidoV9Rn04WbgpzXZVkIkNGdE5g_5fOFftZ2CfgFFA5HX4fYUDBPYvdK_YWtbfUcd9r5JxMMVMGgwnt_ZN98F8spymXv05H6rWsvZ7BSC8LrpSDQ5Nut02G3ij3wbmRgqu1P/s1600/adfjfcab-761073.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220543165338706" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVIPGuCmJWidoV9Rn04WbgpzXZVkIkNGdE5g_5fOFftZ2CfgFFA5HX4fYUDBPYvdK_YWtbfUcd9r5JxMMVMGgwnt_ZN98F8spymXv05H6rWsvZ7BSC8LrpSDQ5Nut02G3ij3wbmRgqu1P/s320/adfjfcab-761073.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My moto-taxi getting a little stuck in the mud -by the way - the kid on the left is my 12y/o driver</td></tr>
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The drive here reminded me how much I really respect (and I guess trust) the drivers here. The roads are muddy and slippery, and even with 6 passengers fogging up visibility they manage to navigate their way around landslides, rocks, a truck or so that's on its side after falling in a ditch, little 3 wheeler tuk tuks and narrow lanes with sheer drops to the side - all while whistling along to the inevitable LOUD strains of some local music. That is impressive actually - no matter how run down the car, it will always have a pretty new and awesome sound system.<br />
<br />
I had to stop writing as a guy came over trying to reason with me that the police wanted me to buy him a coffee:) but then the Aduana (customs) guy also came over so his little attempt at a free coffee faltered. I really haven't experienced much bribery at all during my travels - literally it's been once on the Peruvian side of the Bolivia border crossing, and now this time here in Ecuador. And both attempts were not very hard played.<br />
<br />
But back to the last week - the highlight were visits to 3 pre-inca ruins - the first still in the high mountains near Huaraz - the Chavin ruins, then in the dry sandy desert of Trujillo to see some ruins from the Moche culture, and then nearby here in the cloud forest jungle, the ruins from the Chachapoyas culture - Kuelap. <br />
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The site of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chav%C3%ADn_de_Huantar">Chavin de Huantar</a> started being habitated from 3000BC but the construction dates back to 1200BC. It's one of the oldest sites I've visited, and although it's still being uncovered, there are some beautiful elements to it too. The highlights here were the many tunnels that ran underground the site.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0-SK6_XJpHYG4jwPQLbXc9n3TFmI77vaLaAl7WwS3MKN74Gtc7sdIdfpLzxevdRCDl-FXUnNQUaer4EhLnZmHdAFQC4up7wxdxZm9KK2oIXeYmiYEZOtv-ppvo4w_Xi7a26eH5SnQj1Q/s1600/fhagibgc-764832.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220556657166754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0-SK6_XJpHYG4jwPQLbXc9n3TFmI77vaLaAl7WwS3MKN74Gtc7sdIdfpLzxevdRCDl-FXUnNQUaer4EhLnZmHdAFQC4up7wxdxZm9KK2oIXeYmiYEZOtv-ppvo4w_Xi7a26eH5SnQj1Q/s320/fhagibgc-764832.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mark of the main deity in the Chavin culture</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiZKEjvInT6APlFRaph2_QaH5cyrcBJbUA-Rtw_1y8DQJayffI4r35dDTpfTqnr5LYMXVhbrnUNL7akvnTy0-sIju1dGKYLHtrf4kpnIK4e1w1x2fWdhLouO8L0_0UZc1R23ts7AoWU6zt/s1600/dbghjhac-766176.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220566321675842" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiZKEjvInT6APlFRaph2_QaH5cyrcBJbUA-Rtw_1y8DQJayffI4r35dDTpfTqnr5LYMXVhbrnUNL7akvnTy0-sIju1dGKYLHtrf4kpnIK4e1w1x2fWdhLouO8L0_0UZc1R23ts7AoWU6zt/s320/dbghjhac-766176.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQq_Tah_jqwU8oIP94GdwMbZu0tylVh-pP-MqVl5DmxG8Td5qCx2axuBA8WXfmlWYe6jDdt3p56xJqhIfjwhcpyUY_rjn7aqqVo67bou50CRw6tRok8dNuTbn2Viy3OsTrlc8LSUeWPtNv/s1600/afjdghha-768096.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220572415423170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQq_Tah_jqwU8oIP94GdwMbZu0tylVh-pP-MqVl5DmxG8Td5qCx2axuBA8WXfmlWYe6jDdt3p56xJqhIfjwhcpyUY_rjn7aqqVo67bou50CRw6tRok8dNuTbn2Viy3OsTrlc8LSUeWPtNv/s320/afjdghha-768096.jpg" /></a></div>
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The artefacts from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huaca_de_la_Luna">Huacas de la Luna y Sol</a> (the temple of the moon and sun) of the Moche culture (100-700AD) were incredibly well preserved, and plentiful. Beautiful ceramics, wall paintings, and what was interesting that the Huaca de la Luna was actually a temple that was filled in and rebuilt 5 times. (once each century roughly)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VIew from Huaca de la Luna (religious) to Huaca del Sol (administrative) over the urban (living) area</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUAgeLsVk4KShUhgcMrLlNQ-bOlZkIe6i39Y9gNZcwTm1hBL0IlnMbkopVWef35bsxKSzRg4SlyVUlSZIDIslgrZv26Xh6ECnL8i-r8_YB7vNOy7_rZWHA5zcbuReui66HUUedpRRFCLYm/s1600/fccfejig-771170.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220587914559682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUAgeLsVk4KShUhgcMrLlNQ-bOlZkIe6i39Y9gNZcwTm1hBL0IlnMbkopVWef35bsxKSzRg4SlyVUlSZIDIslgrZv26Xh6ECnL8i-r8_YB7vNOy7_rZWHA5zcbuReui66HUUedpRRFCLYm/s320/fccfejig-771170.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking up alongside Huaca de la Luna to Cerro Blanco </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAUfC_3qZKEVQqm0iBsmrQdPctjlY6JSkYwTEZdN80aYFqeS0MJjlWqOcIwsc5e-yzKub06wF0C8_1mdmowzmqMirCY8l0ZoSTumAfZCHv_RIfPucJoSaaeR0N_Ix2xqayfNFhtILK2D7/s1600/abbbhhaj-773058.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220594114518930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAUfC_3qZKEVQqm0iBsmrQdPctjlY6JSkYwTEZdN80aYFqeS0MJjlWqOcIwsc5e-yzKub06wF0C8_1mdmowzmqMirCY8l0ZoSTumAfZCHv_RIfPucJoSaaeR0N_Ix2xqayfNFhtILK2D7/s320/abbbhhaj-773058.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful painting/mouldings on the outisde of the 5th incarnation of the temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HDdIbz9Duzpag6pKL9j6r16Bk-GqkrBtYsL9_DpWlMrVxWZ4LkjBveYHO_BVM-w_YSxvdJe6gLHEajtZbuK8QF5w8rCwrntoAfqx_s4HEA22YYGx3BNnw7CBiwq_eZ6B2qwBhqt5XmyE/s1600/jdhggdbd-774625.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220597756175458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HDdIbz9Duzpag6pKL9j6r16Bk-GqkrBtYsL9_DpWlMrVxWZ4LkjBveYHO_BVM-w_YSxvdJe6gLHEajtZbuK8QF5w8rCwrntoAfqx_s4HEA22YYGx3BNnw7CBiwq_eZ6B2qwBhqt5XmyE/s320/jdhggdbd-774625.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgp2B4RNdLPnvvOc_I4XqI_dauDfMrAugLeFz1GuvyO88uwgr4OefccNNTfx2oRhcEfZof-qtTpM2bwl3OooRF27zo3o1K8-xD0PJS8Jih-B3uGt_q_s10r6nekHlGRrTItgSyZ566IhY/s1600/hjfifbfd-776767.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220608711747634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgp2B4RNdLPnvvOc_I4XqI_dauDfMrAugLeFz1GuvyO88uwgr4OefccNNTfx2oRhcEfZof-qtTpM2bwl3OooRF27zo3o1K8-xD0PJS8Jih-B3uGt_q_s10r6nekHlGRrTItgSyZ566IhY/s320/hjfifbfd-776767.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kadhCFVfv6T3WAZt_tQfPsKb12K3qKQgXbq1MeQMrejr31dcyWW8QQNc17xOg8j8SNA_E_sZlvWclfWrpI0iG2eLeWryt-_yRynTVVD6Os4nq48qMyTO8WOjVs96OBsWyaG3A3yvMl2O/s1600/jacbbcag-779158.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220618180817826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kadhCFVfv6T3WAZt_tQfPsKb12K3qKQgXbq1MeQMrejr31dcyWW8QQNc17xOg8j8SNA_E_sZlvWclfWrpI0iG2eLeWryt-_yRynTVVD6Os4nq48qMyTO8WOjVs96OBsWyaG3A3yvMl2O/s320/jacbbcag-779158.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpeAggvF7tascEpgAp0Z4whvj7qSbeiV1l-2ks-Dpu31LBIbO5aMtFH4paypXyIJfqz8mJ41B_TGWmZK3Z9EwOuzSHHUNAjTK0nsGlLSFAYLu-tdDBDEjVKWkdm-6b8khziaFyhHcMOsH/s1600/hebiaiei-780314.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220622795859202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpeAggvF7tascEpgAp0Z4whvj7qSbeiV1l-2ks-Dpu31LBIbO5aMtFH4paypXyIJfqz8mJ41B_TGWmZK3Z9EwOuzSHHUNAjTK0nsGlLSFAYLu-tdDBDEjVKWkdm-6b8khziaFyhHcMOsH/s320/hebiaiei-780314.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi34mprpR_5DgALeV5zrIpwpu2Mo1Zms2jBm8cMq3qr2-2LbPw-AQoWzEqwUj5LSfyIEloDlNdv6GxP4mgdwyXloYb26qzv8ytSZjDjaFCzdNmF_AqTJq-cHH7kOxLj-cdGkIC5tDnI5ely/s1600/cehbbfgj-781497.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220630274441250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi34mprpR_5DgALeV5zrIpwpu2Mo1Zms2jBm8cMq3qr2-2LbPw-AQoWzEqwUj5LSfyIEloDlNdv6GxP4mgdwyXloYb26qzv8ytSZjDjaFCzdNmF_AqTJq-cHH7kOxLj-cdGkIC5tDnI5ely/s320/cehbbfgj-781497.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
The<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuelap"> Kuelap ruins</a> are quite different - think Machu Picchu on a less impressive scale, however somehow the siting of the ruins sitting abreast the ridge in the lush green valleys, and beautiful circular ruins of houses and the basic, more crude approach to building, oh and being one of 7 tourists visiting that day, made for a very impressive and tranquil experience. Construction started 6th century AD, and it was used mainly as a pilgrimage site as well as a city. It is much less refined that Machu Pichu - for instance, women and children carried the water from some 100m below at the river, and there is less fine detailing in for instance the roof / wall joints.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
Chachapoyas was also a pretty town - a lot of wooden detailing and colonial finishes, and it was also just a nice place to relax. Sort of in the jungle, but high enough not to be too sweltering.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQKJUpdQSIYvb8jOvCy3eX2D1F53fi18vOAkPCICiKa36rnfT8CXvh5Y66joj6TSItL0bL6eIUcBxeT05xbTrjYn1iSwZzJQevv3dAuRgsX0dVstKUg562diJLzCk1cGReJtTnTlhmgKq/s1600/efgbidei-795698.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220689888267442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQKJUpdQSIYvb8jOvCy3eX2D1F53fi18vOAkPCICiKa36rnfT8CXvh5Y66joj6TSItL0bL6eIUcBxeT05xbTrjYn1iSwZzJQevv3dAuRgsX0dVstKUg562diJLzCk1cGReJtTnTlhmgKq/s320/efgbidei-795698.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Tr3BfKwXk_OOMxXgYc4nu9OnQsOOHJaRDdQjwo2ZuWRRPnCGpk-ecc7vjiE8mvOCaaUgdJdmM8LYUx1rkQsmG-zwvDmDD8Mamptzwf0wTKZ8AB45vdtHjSdPqsoAn6nwTIMMS65p_oav/s1600/bidhecde-796531.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220691898967490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Tr3BfKwXk_OOMxXgYc4nu9OnQsOOHJaRDdQjwo2ZuWRRPnCGpk-ecc7vjiE8mvOCaaUgdJdmM8LYUx1rkQsmG-zwvDmDD8Mamptzwf0wTKZ8AB45vdtHjSdPqsoAn6nwTIMMS65p_oav/s320/bidhecde-796531.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNue6MmHg-RwoI6_2RrTTLnlayFcV6oL0-AyzttHJSYoWNaG8qU_OkLTLCH3iBPncDoZI0jUcuUsFnqMDbkFezGwgbulYJ2ZC-700NIzoxa4WAv6EhHHcv4rp1BfFxjZr-HhOY2waxq4U/s1600/bcbfjicb-797234.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220699578051426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNue6MmHg-RwoI6_2RrTTLnlayFcV6oL0-AyzttHJSYoWNaG8qU_OkLTLCH3iBPncDoZI0jUcuUsFnqMDbkFezGwgbulYJ2ZC-700NIzoxa4WAv6EhHHcv4rp1BfFxjZr-HhOY2waxq4U/s320/bcbfjicb-797234.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhs3RrepxxSwNlN9RdxtuLxpcvqpR9IbTglaEyAZw4rfoHYyzlEJIQzr_I7VAT8iZnIt-iEx4P6-uIT1YKQ1FUmm0DHgtTGHJbwqE_8YvHTxfW25Z5VCjjuqQ5Xf1nw7ht-3RjMgENXlI/s1600/hihjaffa-797861.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220698732111330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhs3RrepxxSwNlN9RdxtuLxpcvqpR9IbTglaEyAZw4rfoHYyzlEJIQzr_I7VAT8iZnIt-iEx4P6-uIT1YKQ1FUmm0DHgtTGHJbwqE_8YvHTxfW25Z5VCjjuqQ5Xf1nw7ht-3RjMgENXlI/s320/hihjaffa-797861.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Finally, yesterday morning I left Peru for the last time this trip began said journey to the border. I am glad I got to see more of the North, and hopefully one day I can return to see more of the stunning mountains near Huaraz, but I'm sort of ready to move onto Ecuador - and as I have 1 month left of traveling here in South America - I better get on to it!<br />
<br />
ps. I forgot the waterfall - here it is!<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWMe3SUlzMQnZKB8ATxeHsdF5rNph52C_ZD2o9DJRfuCo6TV6-NiqVG7ZkJRiNAF8JjUquasejT8QNNmNs-dLGjY3D4yGxLXlQHcGah04lwQBWe_hvVWs_RFI0_rxiK7YvR8tx_EbTDU2/s1600/bbgchcgf-799152.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220707140852434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWMe3SUlzMQnZKB8ATxeHsdF5rNph52C_ZD2o9DJRfuCo6TV6-NiqVG7ZkJRiNAF8JjUquasejT8QNNmNs-dLGjY3D4yGxLXlQHcGah04lwQBWe_hvVWs_RFI0_rxiK7YvR8tx_EbTDU2/s320/bbgchcgf-799152.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj51TQYitwlTlmdcfdqm115yNiFANt55D98LBgH_vLh0MVEwvd2AAut9m6PAm6FMbSAPpItkYgSmpur-rw6rziFq6ahFP9Dm07vBC_2w-Jik9GUagQnyhJA3TLWQ-6Rd__sE0IhZ5CyXLy4/s1600/ihebjhdb-700016.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220709931921106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj51TQYitwlTlmdcfdqm115yNiFANt55D98LBgH_vLh0MVEwvd2AAut9m6PAm6FMbSAPpItkYgSmpur-rw6rziFq6ahFP9Dm07vBC_2w-Jik9GUagQnyhJA3TLWQ-6Rd__sE0IhZ5CyXLy4/s320/ihebjhdb-700016.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSt7e6nVLNc4GRQm22fwDpQUs3hGjy5LEIW2T800gLX7SvoNiEJ0TUP9acYsQfKvHOP4ZC5gIZ2Yym0_nFWOkb4DenrY77ejpjEiWJvIQQ3hbI180SOF60kfp23XBlypIC6V1HC8p7A_wn/s1600/ceaeaihc-700729.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5721220711730217986" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSt7e6nVLNc4GRQm22fwDpQUs3hGjy5LEIW2T800gLX7SvoNiEJ0TUP9acYsQfKvHOP4ZC5gIZ2Yym0_nFWOkb4DenrY77ejpjEiWJvIQQ3hbI180SOF60kfp23XBlypIC6V1HC8p7A_wn/s320/ceaeaihc-700729.jpg" /></a></div>FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Chachapoyas, Peru-6.2166667 -77.85-6.2482372 -77.889482 -6.1850962 -77.810517999999988tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-32380378831231483492012-03-10T14:52:00.000+10:002012-03-11T03:59:37.715+10:00summit attempt of Vallunaraju (5686m)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSNGma_tLQINEOupvRvZ9zXVA5fJ-4OnCiYv-jCxJnqVAezlNSLpJedy2bF-G8fFrByRjnQ1WfXmTW3dvtW7Gw_rjSg62LrbRGtcVRGq4sbCJCdIJVxlbC63CsYxwN1ytj8DazrRsiad_/s1600/hbeabccb-735549.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154253860905378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSNGma_tLQINEOupvRvZ9zXVA5fJ-4OnCiYv-jCxJnqVAezlNSLpJedy2bF-G8fFrByRjnQ1WfXmTW3dvtW7Gw_rjSg62LrbRGtcVRGq4sbCJCdIJVxlbC63CsYxwN1ytj8DazrRsiad_/s320/hbeabccb-735549.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The summit still 3 hours away</td></tr>
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it's 2am in the morning, and I've been intermittently waking up every 30mins or so since trying to sleep at 6.30pm. it seems to be getting warmer in the tent - somehow in my glazed mind it's because of the snow that's banking up on the fly. I know I've got to wake up at some time, but desperately want to get some sleep in too.<br />
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we're already camping at 4850m, and our aim at 2.30am is to start the 6 hour climb to the peak of Vallunaraju - 5686m. (That's a 800m ascent, much of it over 5000m high. Man that sounds hard.) It sits proudly at the end of a valley in the Cordillera Blanca, aptly named as the many mountains there are dusted - or loaded as Vallunaraju was for us - with white (blanca) snow. It's not a technical summit, but at that altitude and with deep snow, it's not an easy final ascent.<br />
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we had started out the previous day from Hurarz at 7am, Piotrek (a Polish traveler who I had met through the agency) and Rolando, our wry guide. It's about a 1.5hr (and like 20km drive) out, and a nice surprise was being driven there by Fey who had taken me to Laguna 69. Fey? Odd name no? well tonight when coming back I found out that his name is actually Freddie! I could never work out why he looked at me odd...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPEuWMyteA741SXZBfvzcgl6LlwtzvJk9k1kyWMis_K74hkKJnV-JqU6WVj7Nycy0M-DYA1fn6dyCBKiOgrMkJHLAO8xEeDLxmk9lah6vtzbiaSJCQBNI9nOl50y_-U0ZczXxtFKyCzSm/s1600/aibjbche-736427.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154260121802002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPEuWMyteA741SXZBfvzcgl6LlwtzvJk9k1kyWMis_K74hkKJnV-JqU6WVj7Nycy0M-DYA1fn6dyCBKiOgrMkJHLAO8xEeDLxmk9lah6vtzbiaSJCQBNI9nOl50y_-U0ZczXxtFKyCzSm/s320/aibjbche-736427.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farmlands around Huaraz</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMobwBGhJcbUhcErvi-tYhdvm_I0bEIXn_fG-hs2sJmVrf57DaBXagDdjgFYOiEbr1Em7vA6p9g7_sLJbo_7YF30AKYP_MptGpYgwxUwuJ45X4jYGz_0BxVhn7DNdVdaenDVs3SJXUFHy3/s1600/agcfcdaf-746617.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154302632265010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMobwBGhJcbUhcErvi-tYhdvm_I0bEIXn_fG-hs2sJmVrf57DaBXagDdjgFYOiEbr1Em7vA6p9g7_sLJbo_7YF30AKYP_MptGpYgwxUwuJ45X4jYGz_0BxVhn7DNdVdaenDVs3SJXUFHy3/s320/agcfcdaf-746617.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the parque with our 4wd</td></tr>
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Fey runs a rather run down rattly taxi that may not look like much, but has the heart of a 4wd, and is certainly driven as one! Rocky roads, slushy river crossings, rain and hail.. we bumped and grinded our way through. Like the other day, the drive up to our starting point was beautiful - up through farmland first, then massive rockfaces, gurgling rivers and all with the dusted peaks around us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJJb_mlIwM64Ou4-EaoERBx98nQvtpl3MdPLWMlUDfyU0g2nidqSrKmqJ35J5RmUBpdJ2AwuasekSlMHkNHavY5h0l0m_JQ9A0rf_AIjDhJW4EIjNEFTwb-xJ4rTXKavAiKOxDyTan-7R/s1600/abajejhe-747391.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154306357496562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJJb_mlIwM64Ou4-EaoERBx98nQvtpl3MdPLWMlUDfyU0g2nidqSrKmqJ35J5RmUBpdJ2AwuasekSlMHkNHavY5h0l0m_JQ9A0rf_AIjDhJW4EIjNEFTwb-xJ4rTXKavAiKOxDyTan-7R/s320/abajejhe-747391.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ronaldo and Piotrek about to start the climb up to base camp</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiReMAp6IPrs4XaWUOJwos5ApajlLQJZB8X6X_NO4Xm-X1JkjXzX-c1kbQowbf9Vm_Q8GeCcYx_xxeBJclPFLC5Qsqw7JZ8IO0T6lFy5-_zbnaS_pfgKwwETS64pfCntVGdv3qptFkbbBnG/s1600/jaacedij-749050.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154316021073602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiReMAp6IPrs4XaWUOJwos5ApajlLQJZB8X6X_NO4Xm-X1JkjXzX-c1kbQowbf9Vm_Q8GeCcYx_xxeBJclPFLC5Qsqw7JZ8IO0T6lFy5-_zbnaS_pfgKwwETS64pfCntVGdv3qptFkbbBnG/s320/jaacedij-749050.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valle de Lluta - we are walking up the right hand side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgORit5FNYVJ65I7lXXAh-oU9QjtjT0eP_KXORLdr-bUXrhlo72cLu6TRPzvJ9tYxukBXQuW16NQSw2Y24MIX8r-ziRanNjQxaokiYXKuYyZcPEzmMls-zRiryfK3oYFu8FeLoDf9rHeXj1/s1600/djcccibi-748106.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154312096253378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgORit5FNYVJ65I7lXXAh-oU9QjtjT0eP_KXORLdr-bUXrhlo72cLu6TRPzvJ9tYxukBXQuW16NQSw2Y24MIX8r-ziRanNjQxaokiYXKuYyZcPEzmMls-zRiryfK3oYFu8FeLoDf9rHeXj1/s320/djcccibi-748106.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clouds part momentarily</td></tr>
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So around 10am we started climbing the 550m to get us to our base camp. Now, perhaps because I may not be acclimatised, or indeed that fit, it was not easy. Lets just say I was huffing and puffing, ignoring advice to try and breathe through my nose cause I had an invincible belief that I couldn't get enough air that way... I needed my mouth open. In Nepal I was trekking at similar altitudes with only a day pack and less ascent - this time, it was with a fully loaded pack (clothes, sleeping bag, crampons, ice pick, kite, umbrella!) and with a steady (read some parts on all 4s) climb. Now I think I'm ok at altitude, but it well and truly had me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6d347JvI7ULsy1QnGcf65STltUyDnLmz7mSn0kSqrHr4sUdUnsEIvSBkF-IARTnhMJRrW249Ld0tcFIEW5NZsMWbEbEi3Yjjv99OjLQ0YgGBIUH3noWyJBj3X4uRXYG74SSRixXH5ge1/s1600/jeciieig-750652.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154319197191218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6d347JvI7ULsy1QnGcf65STltUyDnLmz7mSn0kSqrHr4sUdUnsEIvSBkF-IARTnhMJRrW249Ld0tcFIEW5NZsMWbEbEi3Yjjv99OjLQ0YgGBIUH3noWyJBj3X4uRXYG74SSRixXH5ge1/s320/jeciieig-750652.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful plays of light on the other side of the valley</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6Z0vUFgZNhqhTFXkc00gRVohlB88Y5jVC1C-lJjWZH9iPoxzYYloIUt3r7NCpW2wetx6X2DDmpWiGBaIdBb-8YjVRg1CXr-6IGAsJBPb1TT5aNvOXtNwQw9O_-hI0bNZn4J80Lht8hB_/s1600/fhdhfaci-751456.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154320934852306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6Z0vUFgZNhqhTFXkc00gRVohlB88Y5jVC1C-lJjWZH9iPoxzYYloIUt3r7NCpW2wetx6X2DDmpWiGBaIdBb-8YjVRg1CXr-6IGAsJBPb1TT5aNvOXtNwQw9O_-hI0bNZn4J80Lht8hB_/s320/fhdhfaci-751456.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pointing at the air it seems</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWYWSrQ5gfTJSw-8e6m9uRxt0OVaw55LhBqAKWT3VNeWrjvOyJdL61b32gDDvexpVo4_unX8F8DVQ71VK_AGIrO0_7642aOHW743Z9P_Ng0oW_qT8gu7vWQ_5QfsgF4jOchZ_igFZXP8d/s1600/fgggbjbc-752462.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154326333939074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyWYWSrQ5gfTJSw-8e6m9uRxt0OVaw55LhBqAKWT3VNeWrjvOyJdL61b32gDDvexpVo4_unX8F8DVQ71VK_AGIrO0_7642aOHW743Z9P_Ng0oW_qT8gu7vWQ_5QfsgF4jOchZ_igFZXP8d/s320/fgggbjbc-752462.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boys navigating the poles at base camp</td></tr>
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After setting up camp (or rather, me watching as the 2 able bodied men got confused with tent poles) and lunch, we (well I) struggled up over boulders to the first part of the glacier for me to find out about crampons. I've never used them before, and this trip appealed to me as it was a chance to learn. I guess there's not too much to them, and I do enjoy being just a tad taller! I also got to practice sliding and digging the axe in to stop... fun!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJW7D-9qDyixGJvsPlVU-ZI00bpIR02uOfywpLIAziqxZ2MQXGJljg8aP6kq6svLqM7wL7FYbweNqDeJ-gh8t6m9HxinnZSF7ANJIud4cChcJ5OLPOp8QkDFOrKdxQwXpNhf9wKt4WKeVg/s1600/bfecefgi-753282.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154350014949490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJW7D-9qDyixGJvsPlVU-ZI00bpIR02uOfywpLIAziqxZ2MQXGJljg8aP6kq6svLqM7wL7FYbweNqDeJ-gh8t6m9HxinnZSF7ANJIud4cChcJ5OLPOp8QkDFOrKdxQwXpNhf9wKt4WKeVg/s320/bfecefgi-753282.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marios pointing out where he had explored earlier in the day</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwquSKvaCjk6Vi98yIMSuVwp9IeS1hh-G_MLEoZFwJtuDtBqSBY0F9sVLFl8a6nPTvtjfa50vUUInDIxEuVvYPLVK_bY6MwlqE11G7fERmQ7kYpfRWjZ-NKjjRKlWYNt71kSX33d6rADY/s1600/jbgdabgj-758753.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154350917281762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwquSKvaCjk6Vi98yIMSuVwp9IeS1hh-G_MLEoZFwJtuDtBqSBY0F9sVLFl8a6nPTvtjfa50vUUInDIxEuVvYPLVK_bY6MwlqE11G7fERmQ7kYpfRWjZ-NKjjRKlWYNt71kSX33d6rADY/s320/jbgdabgj-758753.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geared up to practice with the crampons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rain had held off all day, but around 5pm the clouds really rolled in and the rain started. The luxury of having a guide/cook - getting hot food in the tent without any work! Piotrek and Ronaldo laughed at my umbrella, but it was also rather useful as a tent awning. About 6pm, we were all in the tent and after a bit of chatting tried to get some sleep. I felt so fatigued, and so happy to be lying down but lying there... nothing. It's always tricky getting sleep at altitude - but you try, and in the end get snatches.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFgnan-veeksxsObf90UTgs_YajQNxBex2rnCJW0yzwZIG-cqRYZeLHAPasETwXwNduDS-ehcCDp35eG6NIm6B5-VzpTvS_olIeeW4VdG0wh9Kuv6xjg7TjuvRbpYKIZacwS9EvI62B-B/s1600/hgdeeiea-759882.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154360353161794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFgnan-veeksxsObf90UTgs_YajQNxBex2rnCJW0yzwZIG-cqRYZeLHAPasETwXwNduDS-ehcCDp35eG6NIm6B5-VzpTvS_olIeeW4VdG0wh9Kuv6xjg7TjuvRbpYKIZacwS9EvI62B-B/s320/hgdeeiea-759882.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2am</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So 7pm rolls around, then 9pm, and then perhaps 10.45pm, then 11.30pm, and then i think it's time to get up, but then find out I've got some more time to sleep, then 1.30 comes and then after 1 final roll to my side, 2am! We pack up our packs, and use the beautiful moonlight to walk up over now icy boulders to the glacier. It's actually not that cold, as long as you don't get your hands wet as I did filling my waterbottle, and on the walk up I wore only my long sleeved baselayer, and fleece. But as we're going through snow and windy sections, I put my jacket on, suit and rope up, and then we're off. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZwClAIqAM0lqMLaGZmTakbFhDy2EMBCQhsP94AW5tFCzb6HP72pkS8jXLo_hdkdRBAXnYoJAxJe4coTj78IWFxcwnCe9BL4Moh8-pVyyc_MG6JVdj31xYi0Ii9gwaxKBpCqeSx7i8Y1v/s1600/fjfbeiah-760798.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154361813192386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZwClAIqAM0lqMLaGZmTakbFhDy2EMBCQhsP94AW5tFCzb6HP72pkS8jXLo_hdkdRBAXnYoJAxJe4coTj78IWFxcwnCe9BL4Moh8-pVyyc_MG6JVdj31xYi0Ii9gwaxKBpCqeSx7i8Y1v/s320/fjfbeiah-760798.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2.30am - start of the glacier climb. Moon beautifully lit up the mountain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvuiUpmeahDZYsLyhO8_Qa5OFOvV1pJm5mDj9QLiLMvIyhLCFQKmY11MXOD2BKBDk7wYc_1DhbQ7s8bHB4EJQEGOoFy7tSztDj_cmFpiHK15qMOMQRAmetzCoAa1JNDtHZtvWJaCCCjaC/s1600/ddcagghh-761878.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154367594930546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvuiUpmeahDZYsLyhO8_Qa5OFOvV1pJm5mDj9QLiLMvIyhLCFQKmY11MXOD2BKBDk7wYc_1DhbQ7s8bHB4EJQEGOoFy7tSztDj_cmFpiHK15qMOMQRAmetzCoAa1JNDtHZtvWJaCCCjaC/s320/ddcagghh-761878.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ronaldo marking the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's bloody hard. I had thought that with a bit of rest and the walk before I'd be somewhat more adapted. Wrong! From this point to the summit it's a steady climb. No flat bits to relax on - just variations of steep. I was in the middle, so therefore walking (or trying to) in Ronaldo's holes. The snow was generally hard enough (that's why you summit early - before it gets slushy and soft) but it was still a bit of effort not to end up knee deep in snow. I would go about 10 steps on a small incline, or about 5 steps on a steeper one, before needing to stop. I was in good spirits, I felt ok, but just got so so tired, so so quickly.<br />
<br />
4 hours later, I'm still just holding on, but now it feels like that after every 3rd step I need to stop and lie down to recover. I'm super hungry, but feeling a bit nauseous; feeling happy but fatigued; wanting to keep going but happy to stop. I decide that when the sun comes over the horizon, I'll stop. The summit is still 2 hours away, and to be honest although summiting appeals, I want to enjoy it too. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPo1ITG1h_dULg70zOHj1y3rrjoyz1SbgXe_E2kiRBp5xs7HHnmd0eR2hoZBeC2LJW-tlC5898xd5_aR-OMS4OmM_A4eAz7mHymhH08nNCsElWWa0NrGzvix2sWaFrJFKbu1ay9nVypYG/s1600/jbhcdibf-763014.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154372238632002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPo1ITG1h_dULg70zOHj1y3rrjoyz1SbgXe_E2kiRBp5xs7HHnmd0eR2hoZBeC2LJW-tlC5898xd5_aR-OMS4OmM_A4eAz7mHymhH08nNCsElWWa0NrGzvix2sWaFrJFKbu1ay9nVypYG/s320/jbhcdibf-763014.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boys head off up to the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-hz_S1EHDPXyKmzJnakag3BmTYY3CxuX9_PEBgIV9iJSmVfrxXu7eAQAW9BzGNIFaHFHOAd59LEiuhguL91KPLRiMaCtsdGFRUiAl5BdIalzcD-N5yDLXFN9W-dWrcZGeVGTLc1vP1uR/s1600/dfdjggdc-763973.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154377471124178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-hz_S1EHDPXyKmzJnakag3BmTYY3CxuX9_PEBgIV9iJSmVfrxXu7eAQAW9BzGNIFaHFHOAd59LEiuhguL91KPLRiMaCtsdGFRUiAl5BdIalzcD-N5yDLXFN9W-dWrcZGeVGTLc1vP1uR/s320/dfdjggdc-763973.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise comes...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIso6CGi9P4cVOO3Wl3EgauXTjLPBS-W_Xlv34iAPgRGrhT0B0P8HaarHaoKYEY_k0cs3XpUyap9KjVgbTc04RYWJBnmcrgBnD08DPP-uLVS4oOM6rMRSmh0_2zjNIn-oiqqratZ6PFyrl/s1600/jfjbaiaj-764580.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154377898074498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIso6CGi9P4cVOO3Wl3EgauXTjLPBS-W_Xlv34iAPgRGrhT0B0P8HaarHaoKYEY_k0cs3XpUyap9KjVgbTc04RYWJBnmcrgBnD08DPP-uLVS4oOM6rMRSmh0_2zjNIn-oiqqratZ6PFyrl/s320/jfjbaiaj-764580.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8JvNo9VnWl2w-mt2AFttMTWeLy6RvJyaYaNeqntt_lUHBBrb3CdkSa94t8sXOqbffZG6Esnkw-XxjXIg5oDfNttoSTiFcUO2Y_vZMZw8ygX-t0m4Rm5SKZdZvEVJS2f_Ht_9ShgIGXWP/s1600/jeddgede-765769.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154383733311890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8JvNo9VnWl2w-mt2AFttMTWeLy6RvJyaYaNeqntt_lUHBBrb3CdkSa94t8sXOqbffZG6Esnkw-XxjXIg5oDfNttoSTiFcUO2Y_vZMZw8ygX-t0m4Rm5SKZdZvEVJS2f_Ht_9ShgIGXWP/s320/jeddgede-765769.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So it's 6.15am, the horizon is warming up, the lights of Huraz are slowly disappearing, the blue/white of the snow is merging into first a warmer, then brighter white white. The others trudge off, and I sit down to enjoy the morning up on the roof of the world. The Cordillera is spread out around me, it's super quiet and I just sit and enjoy.... and scoff about 2 chocolate bars. Then my bum gets really really cold and as the sun is stronger now, I decide to start making my way down.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMIiVHRy19kMnEqxuLg8xyI6M2-96Qp-fC2aEG_mwKHuSC29-yA1u9xPaEZcuonLHb3nq6MGPYEGM8y9LMZI19gjufTupc8JBHcqic0C3iyarvnqpMmJ02CZLECdeJeCsr2esWg3CsY_P/s1600/ifhgjadj-766650.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154388368298482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMIiVHRy19kMnEqxuLg8xyI6M2-96Qp-fC2aEG_mwKHuSC29-yA1u9xPaEZcuonLHb3nq6MGPYEGM8y9LMZI19gjufTupc8JBHcqic0C3iyarvnqpMmJ02CZLECdeJeCsr2esWg3CsY_P/s320/ifhgjadj-766650.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqfOGhgWPXSwOkgsTbHElkSY2UMIHfcohxekfuciozfOF3hrs7TQ4cpZB_Pk9xPijXs0MBIiC4liy66nKpUyKfDqz5z1-Huy-zvcjs5CYWi1z4Mm5-uD1g1bn__G5UsL9ZzAT_UkQS5NF/s1600/ccdfffdi-767521.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154389933393410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqfOGhgWPXSwOkgsTbHElkSY2UMIHfcohxekfuciozfOF3hrs7TQ4cpZB_Pk9xPijXs0MBIiC4liy66nKpUyKfDqz5z1-Huy-zvcjs5CYWi1z4Mm5-uD1g1bn__G5UsL9ZzAT_UkQS5NF/s320/ccdfffdi-767521.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuFhHwYrzuvaI-okzF8TqXEE9ZixEkWX0sXEYbLUUv3Uu9jl6-Cdt9tJtjpdQ4XILbRnIbIfNRp_fOBmyXNDUTtAADwaFrO5p7SIvFs9pPxy7-2xYRuSnpEPolU0smjG4G2z0e8VWJwe6J/s1600/ijbjcaje-768209.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154395793983170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuFhHwYrzuvaI-okzF8TqXEE9ZixEkWX0sXEYbLUUv3Uu9jl6-Cdt9tJtjpdQ4XILbRnIbIfNRp_fOBmyXNDUTtAADwaFrO5p7SIvFs9pPxy7-2xYRuSnpEPolU0smjG4G2z0e8VWJwe6J/s320/ijbjcaje-768209.jpg" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYA5UUhsCcBbY_eKArJByUkyPUmXOMK_TeyZkybsFWn0ieQ24SbMrYACWkqKHqtDjRNWToyTX6RiupCzZbkovIf-cZ8_E8VhfVTmVMtACeJazfnFBoIvNneZXl69gMUbiHRE0nGfmoRAt2/s1600/chieabed-769273.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154400866837026" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYA5UUhsCcBbY_eKArJByUkyPUmXOMK_TeyZkybsFWn0ieQ24SbMrYACWkqKHqtDjRNWToyTX6RiupCzZbkovIf-cZ8_E8VhfVTmVMtACeJazfnFBoIvNneZXl69gMUbiHRE0nGfmoRAt2/s320/chieabed-769273.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
It's nice to be alone and at my own pace - stopping to take pictures, eat some more, chomp to de-ice my camelbak, rest when I want. It's much easier on the way down; I discover that it's easier to step on the edges of the up-tracks, rather than inside the footsteps, I do try and slide down but always get stuck in the deep snow. It's not suddenly easier though. I still get puffed and discover that my nose has run and solidified (yuck) on my face, but the sun is out, the snow is really sparkling, and I'm having a magical time.<br />
<br />
On the way down I think about whether mountaineering is for me - I love trekking and hiking, and also the high altitudes. But the actual ascent of a peak? The challenge (physically or technically) of it? It doesn't really get me. Perhaps I'm not competitive enough, or not up for doing something just for the challenge, or perhaps I'm simply just a bit lazy to train so that I'm physically strong enough, or perhaps I'm just a bit clumsy, but somehow mountaineering isn't as attractive as trekking. I'm loving being up there, but don't feel bad that I'm not summiting. <br />
<br />
So the sun is out in full force, the sky is generally clear, and all that white snow is making me hot. More derobing, more snacking and idling, and about 2 hours later I'm de-cramponed and back down at our tent to lie in the warm cocoon. I doze, I read, I snack, then I get active and pack up the tent and bags, and wait. <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmY79gE9IShWrRJWQD4JeE4GFTHSjGwTolWRsfn12ZKkuUukJ7gYVaOZd6yaDY9n-Mj84L-eDGONOJELoImhyphenhyphenNI2TMGPuVUQyPq06sXJFkT7i14mbejrzFfGXMBrPuxV-oa-NsovRBCJVK/s1600/dgdhjegg-770285.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154402677467234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmY79gE9IShWrRJWQD4JeE4GFTHSjGwTolWRsfn12ZKkuUukJ7gYVaOZd6yaDY9n-Mj84L-eDGONOJELoImhyphenhyphenNI2TMGPuVUQyPq06sXJFkT7i14mbejrzFfGXMBrPuxV-oa-NsovRBCJVK/s320/dgdhjegg-770285.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oo69p9zXTwy-xI7n0v50rkqSPiCkkJlLdW2vMrSmUOeVg17wmHrVLhTHjZXNReo9eICcmilWou0LirGZJKxtBSXzdIkGcm63H1sgRxB6Ob8wkkrO0_JszBGilMua8Lb1sy5BUTxCfThR/s1600/idgjjjce-771290.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154407971377266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oo69p9zXTwy-xI7n0v50rkqSPiCkkJlLdW2vMrSmUOeVg17wmHrVLhTHjZXNReo9eICcmilWou0LirGZJKxtBSXzdIkGcm63H1sgRxB6Ob8wkkrO0_JszBGilMua8Lb1sy5BUTxCfThR/s320/idgjjjce-771290.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The others have continued to the summit, and they should be coming down about 3 hours after me. But 11.30am passes, then 12.30pm, then 1pm, and just as I'm planning how to notify the Guardaparque, they come. From about 100m after they left me, the snow got deeper. About thigh deep. And walking through snow that deep, at 5300m, for 3 hours more? Bloody tiring. A rather healthy portion of me is very happy that I didn't push on but of course, a small part of me wishes I had. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeyg0u6Zmju37LeRoCl-fQEaJGSLkipjqTHtaclcZZ6_3NiSksb7Yki23jeQVpIpxKeGT17aC8RHFYNTlinlGkaQfNhuPARsnnOXcvQ6RcbVrbuuY5FKVBTeg46kxHLeNhuzWhmQYbqAS/s1600/bfdhicdi-772519.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5718154412369599442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeyg0u6Zmju37LeRoCl-fQEaJGSLkipjqTHtaclcZZ6_3NiSksb7Yki23jeQVpIpxKeGT17aC8RHFYNTlinlGkaQfNhuPARsnnOXcvQ6RcbVrbuuY5FKVBTeg46kxHLeNhuzWhmQYbqAS/s320/bfdhicdi-772519.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading back down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We lunch (now with Mariusz, another Polish mountaineer who we had met yesterday), and then start our way down. It's about 1.5 hours of rocks, mud and boulders. I must of looked like a 70y/o woman wobbling about her walking sticks. What can I say, I have no balance. And with a big pack? it's having a dead weight that swings me around. I'm persistent, I'm careful, but I'm all over the place. About 5 mins from the bottom, the rain and hail sets in. Fey is ready and waiting with the car, we bundle in and start the journey back to Huaraz.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdzwuXTb1IMvDCd776LoYWnZ_4cjPIRjRrKu8axN6lMx0ZfFFbU1HjRVlYXPosulxLEjngvLSJXMmlxcfJb3UkJCiU8p6ZCDyI1Hc6VrTs2qnf0QMZOBbhOr3P-Kn9dm0tMZnWLcExuVv/s1600/IMG_0441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdzwuXTb1IMvDCd776LoYWnZ_4cjPIRjRrKu8axN6lMx0ZfFFbU1HjRVlYXPosulxLEjngvLSJXMmlxcfJb3UkJCiU8p6ZCDyI1Hc6VrTs2qnf0QMZOBbhOr3P-Kn9dm0tMZnWLcExuVv/s1600/IMG_0441.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Mariusz of Rolando and Piotrek approaching the summit</td></tr>
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So 2 days - over 1300m climb - 800m of it on snow. I didn't quite make it, but am happy nonetheless. I got to see the sunrise at over 5000m amid a white topped mountain range. In sparkly snow. The sun on my face. Eating chocolate. Not bad for a Friday morning hey!FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7609982681495469889.post-31945152723920397612012-03-08T11:51:00.001+10:002012-03-08T12:07:02.046+10:00tasty bbq anticucho (beef heart)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBpVLat73Us-Ga4SJdMG0FyCdnOVm5fcxVvfpKxwbRkLZGul_IeUQGXm8VBhqN4-tUB47tsbm4xuFtnQxuDqigSUVe8jQEcdunuxnPAQjnjpTZTHHZpcNTkleCtcQQ_F9Yv5wGXgKlNwU/s1600/gfdcdghh-702287.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5717338067212884098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBpVLat73Us-Ga4SJdMG0FyCdnOVm5fcxVvfpKxwbRkLZGul_IeUQGXm8VBhqN4-tUB47tsbm4xuFtnQxuDqigSUVe8jQEcdunuxnPAQjnjpTZTHHZpcNTkleCtcQQ_F9Yv5wGXgKlNwU/s320/gfdcdghh-702287.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my anticucho getting bbq'd up</td></tr>
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it's great being back in the culinary delights of Peru. tonight I picked up some anticucho - it is bbq'ed beef heart that is oooh sooo tasty. The smell of those grilling up on the street is enough perhaps to even make a serious veggie reconsider:)<br />
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and I'm gonna need the energy! In the morning I'm off to attempt the summit of<a href="http://www.summitpost.org/vallunaraju/150639"> Cerro Vallunaraju (5686m)</a>. We hike to the base camp in the morning, checking out a high altitude Lago Lluta in the afternoon, and then at 2am Friday morning, we start the ascent. It's my first ascent with crampons so I'm excited! I had planned to do another trek but this opportunity came up. Perhaps on the way back I'll tack on the other trek depending on how I'm feeling. Lets hope the clouds open up and reward us with beautiful views across the Cordillera Blanca. <br />
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so back to dinner... here's what I had - and all for $1<br />
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starting with CANCHA - roasted salted corn kernels</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1D5zbjpICbe7oX88NKI0INDpVBt9WAFAvtlmX1e0Tn4oXvisk5EVyzxXqKwQcMwje2Ja7clsYK8WwUGep-HZ3e6cWlSC8LG7KpmJsNwh2YXCeQfOy7AGGXHr2oguMRrsulO-tHH5pOf0/s1600/bichdjac-703254.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5717338072440780642" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1D5zbjpICbe7oX88NKI0INDpVBt9WAFAvtlmX1e0Tn4oXvisk5EVyzxXqKwQcMwje2Ja7clsYK8WwUGep-HZ3e6cWlSC8LG7KpmJsNwh2YXCeQfOy7AGGXHr2oguMRrsulO-tHH5pOf0/s320/bichdjac-703254.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
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followed by the anticucho with potatoes and salad</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVLPBHXPeBOmEY7q0YsWiccKBmnXJlkG5IxR39d0BtYDBlEbE50067tvsjlAZRhj-rGI_VQpUM622aAPlA8QEGYVde9yer6rfU6n1n8g2gywMTeRms6gi1bozbwWezfgZvNTB-GoVdOQp/s1600/aadcebhc-703978.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5717338075803990466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVLPBHXPeBOmEY7q0YsWiccKBmnXJlkG5IxR39d0BtYDBlEbE50067tvsjlAZRhj-rGI_VQpUM622aAPlA8QEGYVde9yer6rfU6n1n8g2gywMTeRms6gi1bozbwWezfgZvNTB-GoVdOQp/s320/aadcebhc-703978.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
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ps... this is where I'm off to tomorrow!<br />
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<br />FatMeercathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08895613228441305386noreply@blogger.com0Huaraz, Peru-9.5333333 -77.5333333-9.5333333 -77.5333333 -9.5333333 -77.5333333